tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75829742946855947492024-03-26T06:26:36.709-07:00Bodgesoc Blogsocbodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-47241710998411884602018-05-03T16:22:00.001-07:002018-06-26T16:18:44.571-07:00Assembly instructions for the STMBL Servo DriveThe STMBL is an open-source 3-phase servo drive suitable for motors up to 2.2kW. Further details can be found <a href="https://github.com/rene-dev/stmbl" target="_blank">here</a><br />
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I had a batch of 50 PCBs made by <a href="http://www.pcbastore.com/" target="_blank">PCBAStore</a> for a very reasonable £47 per board. These kits were without the more bulky and expensive components. This blog post describes how to assemble one of the kits in to a working drive.<br />
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The <a href="https://github.com/rene-dev/stmbl/blob/master/docs/src/Getting%20Started.adoc" target="_blank">main documentation</a> (work in progress) is relevant to both the current and future versions of the drive. However due to the withdrawal from the market of the IRAM256 chip used by the board any future versions are likely to be physically different and assembled differently which is why this is a blog post and not a documentation section.<br />
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1) Test the board and flash the firmware.<br />
There is no point assembling the board if it is a dud. The boards are supplied with the two halves linked and with a bridge that permits communications.<br />
Before the boards are powered up they need to have C143 (22µF 6.3mm dia) installed. Most of the boards that I supply will have this already. Do not power up the boards without this component.<br />
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Ensure that the white stripe on the capacitor is adjacent to the corresponding stripe on the board silkscreen. </div>
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The board can then be powered up with 24V to both halves. There should be two green LEDs illuminated </div>
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This is a good time to flash the firmware. See the <a href="https://github.com/rene-dev/stmbl/blob/master/docs/src/Getting%20Started.adoc" target="_blank">main documentation</a> for instructions how to do this. </div>
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Once the firmware is flashed and the basic functionality of the board is assured the larger components can be added. C21 and C22 (270µF 400 / 450V) should be added first. Again make sure that the stripes line up as shown below. Trim the leads off short to ensure spacing from the IRAM module. </div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">It is imperative that the screws have insulated washers. These are supplied with the kit. Their function is to retain isolation gaps between the screws and the board tracks. </span></div>
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The IRAM module is spaced from the PCB with special 3D printed standoffs. It is easier to fit these round the screws (M3 x 14mm) prior to intalling the IRAM256. </div>
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Thread the IRAM256 into the PCB holes and on to the standoffs.<br />
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Screw the mounting screws in to the threaded holes on the heat-sink. A dab of heat-sink compound will not come amiss at this point. </div>
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Add a plain standoff and another screw. The slots in the extrusion are grooved to accept M3 screws, so this will get a decent grip. </div>
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The IRAM256 can now be soldered. Take care to ensure that solder flows all the way through to join the tracks on both sides of the board, as shown below. These are high-current connections and relying on the through-hole plating to link the board-sides is not a good idea. </div>
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The 3D printed fan-mounts can now be installed. </div>
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And the fan can be fitted. The 3D-printed parts ensure that the fan is at the right height for later. The lower screws seem able to make their own threads in the lower grooves of the heatsink. </div>
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<b><span style="color: red;">The photo shows the fan fitted the wrong way round, it should blow-in not suck-out.</span> </b></div>
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The right-angle header should now be fitted, in the orientation shown, and on the side of the board shown. </div>
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And the steady-bracket can be fitted with the self-tapping screw provided. </div>
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The vertical board is designed to sit hard down on the fan and on the connector block. In this position and with the capacitor bracket it is really quite strongly and rigidly supported. It is important to solder the header in-situ to achieve this. </div>
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Connect the fan wires and the drive is completed. There are two schools of thought on fan wire routing, some prefer the wires to start from the other corner and connect on the other side of the PCB.</div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-50626767657399560702018-03-30T08:08:00.000-07:002018-03-31T15:36:28.647-07:00Rebuilding the Harrison Milling Machine Vertical HeadMy little Harrison Milling Machine has a vertical head adaptor that takes power from the horizontal spindle, converting it into a conventional vertical milling machine. There was a version of this with step-up gearing but mine has the 1:1 version so my maximum speed is a rather lowly 1000rpm. (Though the VFD allows me to push this to 1400)<br />
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Unlike most of this model of milling machine mine is CNC and has a pneumatic power drawbar. But the vertical head is unmodified so the following should apply to all of them.<br />
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When I first got my mill I found that oil leaked out of the bottom bearing cover. I took it off and found no oil seal, so I added one assuming that Harrison were relying on the grease in the bottom bearing cover to keep the oil in the bevel box in.<br />
Taking the head apart I realised that this was a misapprehension on my part, and that Harrison did actually know what they were doing. There is a sleeve fixed into the bottom of the casting which reaches up inside to above the oil level, and then a cup on the spindle shaft that comes down to below the top of this sleeve to stop oil falling in. The only way for oil to get in to the bottom bearing is if the oil level is set considerably too high. It seems likely that grease from the bearings will end up in the oil, though, after a few years of fills.<br />
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I had not been planning to take mine apart, despite the fact that it was very noisy. leading to concerns about the very expensive bearings. However after adding oil to the primary drive gear area it suddenly started to make a regular tapping/knocking noise so I decided to see what might be wrong.<br />
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The first thing to do is to remove the vertical head. It is a heavy and unwieldy device so it probably makes sense to start disassembling with it still mounted on the machine.<br />
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There are two oil spaces in the head, one for the step-up gears and one for the bevel box. There is a drain screw in the bottom of the rear casting for the former. The easiest way to drain the top is probably to remove the inspection cover on the right (5 Allen screws under the lubricant label) and then rotate the head through 90 degrees.<br />
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This would be a good time to loosen the screws on the bearing covers.<br />
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With the bevel drive drained it can be easily removed from the rear casting by removing the nuts from the 3 T-bolts and simply drawing it forward.<br />
The T-bolts can be removed through the hole that is left when the top-hat bush around the zero-degree angle locking taper pin is removed. This is retained by a small grub screw.<br />
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The bevel bearing assembly itself can then be removed from the main body. It is retained by a number of socket screws.<br />
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There are two threaded jacking holes to help pull this assembly out. Two of the screws from the top bearing cover have the correct thread and can be used.<br />
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The bevel support housing will have been shimmed. Mine had two plastic shims, as shown below. </div>
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A <a href="http://www.arrowgear.com/pdf_files/install.pdf" target="_blank">document that I found online</a> says that bevel gears will have markings to say the correct offsets from the mating axis and backlash, but I could not find any such markings on these gears. I just had to assume that the existing shims were correct. I did not dismantle this assembly. </div>
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Note the three oil-drain holes in the main housing. These should be at the bottom when the housing is reinstalled. </div>
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Removing the spindle begins with removing the top nut and washer. It has three locking grub screws that bear on to the thread. Hopefully this hasn't damaged the thread too much (it hadn't on mine)</div>
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The spindle is a very tight fit in the top bearing inner race. In fact on mine it was too tight for the adjusting ring to move. There is no "nice" way to push it out without reacting the force against the top bearing. I ended up using an aluminium drift and a big hammer. A press would have been nicer.</div>
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To remove the spindle it is necessary to progressively unscrew and slide a number of parts off of the spindle. Starting at the top there is a collar above the bevel gear, then the gear, then a spacer and then the combined oil control cup and adjuster. The upper ring and cup adjuster also have three locking grub screws each. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKNvG4uSqmAV7oiHxeBVcVN1c7siqpoTd9ORzOPHTje3zewDXi08FT7OWH9WJcOlSkdAODGTagSoDO5aku2A8-r4ltSYCKtrfmqQCW6EcI7DVbFEUtB9t7qII-brM6L5T84aXiLDgiFeN/s1600/IMG_3526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKNvG4uSqmAV7oiHxeBVcVN1c7siqpoTd9ORzOPHTje3zewDXi08FT7OWH9WJcOlSkdAODGTagSoDO5aku2A8-r4ltSYCKtrfmqQCW6EcI7DVbFEUtB9t7qII-brM6L5T84aXiLDgiFeN/s400/IMG_3526.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I was stumped for a little while about the drive key for the bearing, and how to get it out to allow the spacer and adjuster to pass. Eventually I realised that both the spacer and the adjuster have a keyway slot, so they can slide past. The adjuster comes off of its threads before it hits the key. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoWLBlv4B5TZzlcsJK59SSZCVkOPvR5YzgBKUn8RE02QFv0RWg6yN-SqyQbBMCGt6Oq3WrzPlFw3-v5-IqMDVr1RNCwRXIrnYRSZCwb4-zIqmLr6y8AFJW1U3pRB3VE461tjhZcO4Yir0/s1600/fullsizeoutput_c22.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoWLBlv4B5TZzlcsJK59SSZCVkOPvR5YzgBKUn8RE02QFv0RWg6yN-SqyQbBMCGt6Oq3WrzPlFw3-v5-IqMDVr1RNCwRXIrnYRSZCwb4-zIqmLr6y8AFJW1U3pRB3VE461tjhZcO4Yir0/s400/fullsizeoutput_c22.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This picture shows the oil-control sleeve which stops the oil falling out through the bottom spindle bearing:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBzMnzspw5WXIdvEDsEao0_6AbVItHb3oHArfY_fN5lTmBw-wg1Oo72Vwb8SjuA9rS46xCjeSU6Ac2PH3Ua1-WPK0z0pT2OFFkt_4wSHxrKb4ijtADjrzN1i9ulKS2rQW1OK_2lCWZCryZ/s1600/fullsizeoutput_c1e.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBzMnzspw5WXIdvEDsEao0_6AbVItHb3oHArfY_fN5lTmBw-wg1Oo72Vwb8SjuA9rS46xCjeSU6Ac2PH3Ua1-WPK0z0pT2OFFkt_4wSHxrKb4ijtADjrzN1i9ulKS2rQW1OK_2lCWZCryZ/s400/fullsizeoutput_c1e.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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With a bit of a fiddle and some carefully-applied brute force the spindle was removed. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaqNJq9dJgnZbDkumm9mxMdar4ukPhdPZ1kvaV73ZjIZjuRdC1_t2lMK0DfiijOVs00wKdtnFQf5tk-vYoScZB7n0PRBVhh0PW3fs10U1-ZgaKHCUzj9hgCS2sZPsN9ZpZxuvd5dUQtIT/s1600/IMG_3519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaqNJq9dJgnZbDkumm9mxMdar4ukPhdPZ1kvaV73ZjIZjuRdC1_t2lMK0DfiijOVs00wKdtnFQf5tk-vYoScZB7n0PRBVhh0PW3fs10U1-ZgaKHCUzj9hgCS2sZPsN9ZpZxuvd5dUQtIT/s400/IMG_3519.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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The inner race was not removed. I don't know how you would, but it might well be possible to push it off using the 4 threaded holes in the 30-INT mounting face. These must be through-holes as the grease comes out through them. </div>
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The inner and outer bearing races and the cage are held together by snap-rings (by a nylon ring on the bottom and a wire ring on the top in my case)</div>
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The bearings are a bit fancy, with hand-engraved ID etc. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdn0IdVgNY3x1AAMKYQhr54w75rB5k3k_NUUfcyCnCLmOwr-Sdjm_oVyN5o5CtCOxuLbl3SnMCGfF459eOydh9nzxWOPC05kLaNKRuNFZP5PPnOnZNvYBwfhA3k5y7vfJ3e_l72eE5WIb_/s1600/fullsizeoutput_c1f.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdn0IdVgNY3x1AAMKYQhr54w75rB5k3k_NUUfcyCnCLmOwr-Sdjm_oVyN5o5CtCOxuLbl3SnMCGfF459eOydh9nzxWOPC05kLaNKRuNFZP5PPnOnZNvYBwfhA3k5y7vfJ3e_l72eE5WIb_/s400/fullsizeoutput_c1f.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The internal baffles top and bottom would make bearing replacement a bit of a game. However there is space underneath the race for a hook-shaped puller of some sort. The baffles seem to be held in with small grub-screws radially onto their edge. </div>
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I took the rollers out to clean them. They all have a hole right through the middle (for cooling in oil-lubricated situations maybe?). The rollers are subtly tapered, it would probably be a bad idea to get one the wrong way round. In the picture below the one highest in the frame is small-end up, the rest are big-end up. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzb7RKQQ0Q9fl9jawVkHrudUR8RYKKVeeNMFdoumVSdvXe29vwocRJm0hSodkQrAlHYs2-s8wHT9AEVBAnsV3rIG6AwwI0Q3FsW1TSVFL4D4Fj5Vm1Xr6_aGLWBqc1vP2XVQXYY051aLpB/s1600/IMG_3524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzb7RKQQ0Q9fl9jawVkHrudUR8RYKKVeeNMFdoumVSdvXe29vwocRJm0hSodkQrAlHYs2-s8wHT9AEVBAnsV3rIG6AwwI0Q3FsW1TSVFL4D4Fj5Vm1Xr6_aGLWBqc1vP2XVQXYY051aLpB/s400/IMG_3524.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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After a clean and re-grease of the bearings assembly was the reverse of disassembly. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFLfovIDW7T1bIXuwJ-YRKxyQmtsKCWo0cIILTBYnQgnLbS5_1JVI5Icx2DJqU9Tdr3a2ckBDEEXgxoq4Y-YT6XdUfp325z6Icf_hKhzg_KRqTV3BwY5tX4XHETFFkhl_FHN7As2fWjENr/s1600/IMG_3528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFLfovIDW7T1bIXuwJ-YRKxyQmtsKCWo0cIILTBYnQgnLbS5_1JVI5Icx2DJqU9Tdr3a2ckBDEEXgxoq4Y-YT6XdUfp325z6Icf_hKhzg_KRqTV3BwY5tX4XHETFFkhl_FHN7As2fWjENr/s400/IMG_3528.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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A spanner on the drive dogs can be used for holding the spindle while the various rings are tightened. </div>
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I am using a punch here, but a modified C-spanner from an ER20 collet set was better for final tightening. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX70k1K6xjOhGjPgjeTup7j2ldfTZQ4OPAyd8iWxKLOUs4ybJbvgXP2OUWzJtUxDYaZNYViRt9g7bdPossgwI_8eN2262hzs13NMUGnz7b5UotRODX_LYgYxE4p4v3136OcNEBc5eRtpEi/s1600/IMG_3530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX70k1K6xjOhGjPgjeTup7j2ldfTZQ4OPAyd8iWxKLOUs4ybJbvgXP2OUWzJtUxDYaZNYViRt9g7bdPossgwI_8eN2262hzs13NMUGnz7b5UotRODX_LYgYxE4p4v3136OcNEBc5eRtpEi/s400/IMG_3530.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The document on bevel gears that I linked to above says that the gears should be set to the backlash engraved on the gears. Mine had no such number, so I had to guess. But I did measure it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6plEjU3ypI7sqw0UoSxJt34SOCtNj5SUNiMApqGzMicj0GXDNV8vnTjfrzmUy4mKJAp3iO8esSR1_pvTNKp3OAaIXkDJxv9C7iKe6Ci280G0pRcxasJhWIrgnKVcnLd7CKUS3CJaoKf0h/s1600/IMG_3536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6plEjU3ypI7sqw0UoSxJt34SOCtNj5SUNiMApqGzMicj0GXDNV8vnTjfrzmUy4mKJAp3iO8esSR1_pvTNKp3OAaIXkDJxv9C7iKe6Ci280G0pRcxasJhWIrgnKVcnLd7CKUS3CJaoKf0h/s400/IMG_3536.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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The primary drive gear assembly presents no special problems, except for one, and I forgot to take any photos. </div>
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The gear and 30INT adaptor arbor, along with the oil seal cup can be removed as a unit once the oil control baffle is removed. This is located only by a grub-screw on the operators-right of the machine. </div>
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It presses radially onto the baffle. With this loosened the baffle plate and the gears / shaft can be removed. There are tapped holes in the baffle plate, probably for a puller. But I found that I could remove mine using the gear/shaft as a slide-hammer to gradually work it out. </div>
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There is an O-ring around the baffle, but mine was completely flattened. I may source a new one at some point, especially if leaks turn out to be an issue. </div>
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I found that the drive-dog area on my spindle adaptor was fatigue cracked and had parts missing on both sides. I made a new input shaft out of a 30-INT to No 5 Jacobs Taper adaptor (The No5 Jacobs taper is _huge_). </div>
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For reference the bearings are listed in the parts book as:<br />
355X / 345B bottom spindle bearing - Simply Bearings used to have these at £275 but not any more.<br />
<a href="https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p40319/Major-Brand-28137/28315B-Imperial-Taper-Roller-Bearing-Flanged-Cup-and-Cone-Set-1.375x3.1496x0.827-inch-Allow-2-3-Days/product_info.html" target="_blank">28137 / 28315B top</a> spindle bearing (£243. They also have a Gamet bearing with the same OD and ID but it is deeper and that would be a problem)<br />
<a href="https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p40383/Major-Brand-28150/28315B-Imperial-Taper-Roller-Bearing-Flanged-Cup-and-Cone-Set-1.5x3.1496x0.827-inch-Allow-2-3-Days/product_info.html" target="_blank">28150 / 28315B</a> (x2) bevel carrier bearings. (£121)<br />
These bearings have flanges on the outer race and fit into plain bores in the castings.<br />
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-48985951504132461132018-03-20T13:07:00.000-07:002018-03-20T13:07:54.475-07:00LED Headlight ConversionI fitted HID lights to my R1 soon after I got it. But I have never really been happy with the main beam performance. (Fine when warmed up, but takes a long time to get there) and also I have always ended up with miss-matched colour temperatures after one failed.<br />
I then read a document saying that the MoT test rules were going to get more strict on aftermarket HID, and with the MoT test imminent I decided to swap to LED lights. (Mainly because they swap out for halogens a lot more easily)<br />
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I did a tiny amount of research online and bought some of these based on an online recommendation of another (US Amazon only) lamp with the same LED.<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078YRBNM2/">https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078YRBNM2/</a><br />
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Somewhat later I read this rather informative blog post with actual measurements and tests<br />
<a href="https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/blog/are-led-headlight-bulbs-the-brightest/">https://www.autobulbsdirect.<wbr></wbr>co.uk/blog/are-<span class="il">led</span>-headlight-<wbr></wbr>bulbs-the-brightest/</a><br />
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Had I read that first I probably wouldn't have bought the ones I bought.<br />
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Anyway, fitting them was pretty easy, once I had removed the HID bulbs and their ballasts. (Which was less easy, I had fitted them rather "elaborately" all those years ago.)<br />
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With the new bulbs in place there was a slight problem:<br />
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As can be seen, the fan/heatsink pokes rather a long way out of the back of the dipped beams (though not out of the main beams to any great extent).<br />
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The solution was simple, and for pretty much the first time my 3D printer was set to work making actual working parts (It has made quite a few foundry patterns).<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzQh4vMLZnn5To5T6Hfdx-aL7aXIudKEmkGNYfwWLF4U8GOC0od-gPPVir9BOyoi9QVh5l-qJkKdg-tiJvTiw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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This is what the part looks like, it is a copy of the bayonet of the original rear cover, mated to a copy of the socket of the headlamp unit. </div>
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It looks reasonably tidy in-situ. </div>
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The main beam units originally have a rubber cover with a hole in it for the lamp connector (I have no idea why they fitted a neat cover to the dips and an old-fashioned thing to the mains.</div>
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I need to mention here that a side-effect of the funny rubber cover is that the main bulbs need a plug-on adaptor that pokes through the rubber. The spring clip for the bulbs won't work without this, or some other spacer. I used some that I machined from Delrin for the HID elements. It might be possible to cut-down the original spacers but making something is probably better, and it could be done with a hacksaw and drill if some plastic rod of the right diameter was located. </div>
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I had some spare dip-beam back covers as a side-effect of a high-side at Cadwell Park and made some adaptors to allow those to mount to the main beam housings. </div>
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The place where the rubber cover mounted is tapered, so I modelled a matching taper on the new part. It just pushes on and sticks like a M<strike>orose Tapir</strike> Morse Taper. I might add glue later. </div>
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Unfortunately because the bayonet latches of the covers won't fit through the rim on the housing these adaptors end up a bit long. </div>
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I hope that I will eventually get used to the aesthetics. If not I might have to try something else. I could just glue the cap into the adaptor and rely entirely on the taper, that would shorten the assembly significantly. </div>
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At least there is plenty of space for air circulation. </div>
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I did end up removing one fin from the dip beam cover. The bottom yoke _just_ touched it at full lock, and I know how much the MoT man hates that sort of thing. The main beam covers are a long way below the bars at full lock and are no problem at all. </div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-4653668017850901032017-05-29T10:32:00.002-07:002019-05-27T05:50:57.064-07:00Magneto Recharger / Remagnetiser for flywheel magnetos. Much to my chagrin, the Ner-a-Car has not actually run since<a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/france.html" target="_blank"> I took it on a trip to France.</a> I have occasionally had an idea, tried it (replacing the capacitor with a modern one, for example) failed to make the bike run, and given up.<br />
With a vintage vehicle day at work, and the Banbury Run looming in the near future I decided it was time to consider the bike again.<br />
The spark seems very weak, and it wasn't all that weak before, so I wondered if perhaps the magnets had lost their magnetism. There isn't really much reason for them to, and I had them re-magnetised during the rebuild, but I speculated that perhaps the bike had been parked for a long time without the magneto armature being in the right place to act as a keeper. (it's a 2-stroke single, there are not many things that are capable of stopping it working).<br />
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Lots of people have build magneto chargers before, but nearly always for the usual horseshoe-shaped magnets that are found round the outside of the t<a href="http://beamishtransportonline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Simms-SF4LOopt.pdf" target="_blank">ypical unit magnetos.</a> The Ner-a-Car has the magneto magnets as part of the flywheel, which apart from anything else means that the magnetiser needs a bigger than normal span.<br />
Initially I was planning to make a magnetiser almost exactly the same shape as the magneto armature, but after thinking it through I decided that a conventional layout would work, and would be adaptable for other types.<br />
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It seems to be agreed that you need 20,000 Ampere-turns to remagnetise a magneto. I did some calculations in Excel during my lunch-hour. I attempted to optimise for the minimum mass of wire.<br />
I figured out some numbers and bought 1kg of 1mm wire and then waited for it to arrive. I then realised that I had made an error in my calculations, and had been under-estimating resistance by a factor of 10. This meant that my 20A 240V coil would actually be a 200A coil, and that seemed like a bad idea.<br />
So, I had a bit of a re-think and decided that I would use 2 x 12V coils in parallel. These would take 60A, but anyone with a vehicle that <i>doesn't </i>rely on a magneto and generator has a suitable supply in the form of the battery.<br />
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So, I ordered 1kg of 1.4 mm (diameter) wire.<br />
The coil formers are 25.4mm mild steel bars, machined to a length of 86.5mm with 5mm plastic end-caps pressed on. The windings are 7 layers of wire @ 50 turns per layer for a total of 350 turns per coil. 30A through each coil is 21,000 Ampere-Turns.<br />
The coils are linked and mounted by a mild-steel bar, 35 x 20mm. I made some top pieces out of the remainder and the thing is assembled with M8 screws.<br />
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When I wound the magneto itself there were 20,000 turns to wind, and<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VLv9fmIqcQ" target="_blank"> I did it on the lathe under power.</a> However this wire was a lot stiffer, and was going to need more attention to persuade it to lie straight, so I mounted the bars on a threaded stub in the chuck of my Rivett lathe, and mounted a winding handle on the other end. Then I wound the coils by hand with the lathe drive disconnected.<br />
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The wire terminates at 1/4" copper tags fitted into slots machined in the end-caps and secured by an M2 countersunk screw. One end of the wire was filed clean of varnish and tinned, then soldered to the tag. Then the assembly was carried down to the lathe, mounted and wound. At the end of layer 7 the wire was cut, tinned and soldered to the other terminal tag.<br />
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I didn't take any photos of the construction. In fact I didn't take any photos until I had finished.<br />
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Once assembled I used a small current-limited PSU to identify the N and S poles,<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112189831720" target="_blank"> using a device that I got from eBay.</a> testing with my magneto (which has a clearly stamped "N" on one pole I was able to determine that with my pole finder the red end points to N.<br />
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Something that hadn't been 100% clear to me prior to building this device is that when magnetising a magneto the N of the magneto magnet sits on the S of the charger. (which I think is somewhat the reverse of the situation with a battery charger)<br />
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The magneto is simply placed on top of the charger and the other ends of the wires held against the battery terminals for a few seconds. The coils became warm but not hot in that time-scale. </div>
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Did it work? I am not 100% sure. But I did get to ride the bike round the block early this afternoon. </div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-44565129690705633512017-05-23T14:36:00.001-07:002017-05-23T14:38:16.265-07:00Harmonic Drive 4th AxisI have already made a 4th axis for my <a href="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertical-mill-lathe-project-log/109301-cnc.html" target="_blank">cnc-converted Harrison Milling machine</a>. It is a servo-driven <a href="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/uncategorised-metalworking-machines/172314-cnc.html" target="_blank">BS0 dividing head</a>. It works OK but lacks the torque for 4th-axis milling and it is impossible to have the backlash low enough in the sloppy bits without the servo stalling in the tight bits. It still makes gears relatively OK, but you can almost forget rotary-axis engraving.<br />
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I found out that Harmonic Drive make some <a href="http://www.harmonicdrive.net/products/rotary-actuators/hollow-shaft-actuators/fha-c" target="_blank">really nice integrated drive/bearing/servo assemblies </a>that are pretty much a 4th-axis waiting to happen. Lots of torque capacity, a large crossed-roller bearing and an integrated servo drive with a hollow shaft for through-spindle work. All very nice, and extremely expensive new. They are even expensive on eBay, but if you set up a watch you can occasionally find a bargain. I was in no hurry, and eventually picked one up for $250 from a seller in the US. It wasn't quite that simple, I had to get it shipped to a friend in Richmond, CA, then he stripped off a huge and heavy bracket and sent it on the slow (and cheap) boat to me. I ended up paying both California VAT and UK VAT on it, but it still saved a few $100 on the original quoted shipping price.<br />
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<b>The drive I got was an older FHA-25B drive. This turned out to be a happy accident, as the FHA-xxB drives use Hall sensors for commutation and conventional quadrature encoders. The later FHA-xxC drives use a proprietary serial encoder for feedback and commutation, and only really work with the dedicated drives. If you choose to follow this route, look for the B-series actuators. </b><br />
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The harmonic drive is pretty-much ready to go as-is, it just needs a bracket. I decided to use cast iron.<br />
I designed a bracket in Inventor, and then used the excellent CAM in Fusion 360 to machine a pattern.<br />
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<a href="blob:https://www.blogger.com/5f614000-0139-43cb-acef-702be48cdcc0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBklLQ21grnTzWBQ1GGzHLAQT0IVnHSPypDXPFdXR6DIUQnT1x6x4muWLhST4syrZsXzh17BIVTHoqjf1apf2sPr0XqgSn92mXcX5EVAkuSrvKJ2ln4LLyMugD4cDnRNjxlW6tv2fleSxS/s1600/Rotary.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBklLQ21grnTzWBQ1GGzHLAQT0IVnHSPypDXPFdXR6DIUQnT1x6x4muWLhST4syrZsXzh17BIVTHoqjf1apf2sPr0XqgSn92mXcX5EVAkuSrvKJ2ln4LLyMugD4cDnRNjxlW6tv2fleSxS/s400/Rotary.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Machining took quite some time. I used a some pre-used <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">SikaBlock M970 that I had lying about. In the process I made quite a mound of pretty green petals. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirjE8kz5SRGVx47lW-DK0IrSQuuGj1YcdNGLo88TCfDhBAi4tbHNXLvz0nPSqdIW7jjIdq0REQKriF4P3Xyz2m0yNzp8JxzKK_qEyCIC_QTZG9BTf7dPuGX-FUjJtnrMrOzBxNuLIMX2mf/s1600/IMG_2962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirjE8kz5SRGVx47lW-DK0IrSQuuGj1YcdNGLo88TCfDhBAi4tbHNXLvz0nPSqdIW7jjIdq0REQKriF4P3Xyz2m0yNzp8JxzKK_qEyCIC_QTZG9BTf7dPuGX-FUjJtnrMrOzBxNuLIMX2mf/s400/IMG_2962.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And then at the end had a fairly good pattern in the wrong colour to send to the iron foundry.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe6paAOg90FOfmc8I3vDE8EXb48xW6uFpb7uHSoTptlLfphcbUTWy44aY-nkTSB5fOx1h830VXIiV_xode8nYU4oFwWQmsfX8Z-bYAEeP3_FRjR_96-EmQnwegEYUQQwtTkHyK6jm2JbIZ/s1600/IMG_2965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe6paAOg90FOfmc8I3vDE8EXb48xW6uFpb7uHSoTptlLfphcbUTWy44aY-nkTSB5fOx1h830VXIiV_xode8nYU4oFwWQmsfX8Z-bYAEeP3_FRjR_96-EmQnwegEYUQQwtTkHyK6jm2JbIZ/s400/IMG_2965.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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One thing that I decided early on about this 4th-axis is that it would use the same spindle-nose as my lathe, so that I can use the chucks, face-plates and collet adaptors that fit that, and potentially transfer work directly from one to the other. A not unimportant consideration here is just how tedious it is to centre work in the 4-jaw chuck in a dividing head. Even a CNC one is tedious, I hate to imagine what it would be like twiddling a handle. </div>
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My lathe is a D1-4 nose so I set about making that while waiting for the foundry. I used some EN24 / 817M40 (having bought half a pallet of bar-ends on eBay). The D1-4 nose has 3 locking cams (the D1-5 to D1-20 have 6). This leads to some difficulty as the harmonic drive has 8 mounting holes round the register and this was a bad fit to the 3-fold symmetry of the spindle nose. It took a bit of fiddling in CAD but by deciding to retain the locking cams in an unconventional way (there are no centrifugal forces to counteract) I managed to find a way to squeeze in 5 mounting screws. I also did a CAD investigation of how to manage a D1-5, but that ended up with a two-piece nose with mounting bolts buried inside. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3YkZZ7UhTfj1eworBntVwrOMm5I1NE1PthEl3ZXMRmr85NYSvX2e0PEbw1rcyLdHxLOIEAUSJ-q22hNNNlDjffP-8XEgNTT4ojmoGmJghVkfMmL2S1IYU_gyhI1VrreHX4DVOrynGsKTG/s1600/IMG_2967.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3YkZZ7UhTfj1eworBntVwrOMm5I1NE1PthEl3ZXMRmr85NYSvX2e0PEbw1rcyLdHxLOIEAUSJ-q22hNNNlDjffP-8XEgNTT4ojmoGmJghVkfMmL2S1IYU_gyhI1VrreHX4DVOrynGsKTG/s400/IMG_2967.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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First I bored out a recess to match the register on the dividing head. </div>
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Then I drilled and deeply countersunk the mounting-bolt holes on the mill. At the same time I drilled and finish-bored the holes that take the three camlock locking studs. </div>
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I then machined a dummy register to match that on the harmonic drive, mounted the nose on that, and completed the machining. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNphUwCfObuappBoo3PoB4s83OQhu1YujXRurRFzsnJSV83knhdy6baS7_yfO151A0hkjv0UCcZMS-Q6vCTbvrHSNjikDerEUWRJgx4FM6JcpUJJtAix2Vfhw5ZW1mCyz_DG16azZf07b/s1600/IMG_2986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNphUwCfObuappBoo3PoB4s83OQhu1YujXRurRFzsnJSV83knhdy6baS7_yfO151A0hkjv0UCcZMS-Q6vCTbvrHSNjikDerEUWRJgx4FM6JcpUJJtAix2Vfhw5ZW1mCyz_DG16azZf07b/s400/IMG_2986.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A trial fit on the harmonic drive proved that I hadn't messed up my units or something silly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8bjR7nLkTOwZpyaNuxgjlifAx4-mmGZgP6nn9HNdgWxJPIn0KTDfB-OXCohLbRpzt6DGXK99jyYJUlSBfhvlOqrNenDl3Mhbqol6JM9ZKt4wjkO8YiF1uIGjsqok-GiZkllDeaqyM-KV/s1600/IMG_2990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8bjR7nLkTOwZpyaNuxgjlifAx4-mmGZgP6nn9HNdgWxJPIn0KTDfB-OXCohLbRpzt6DGXK99jyYJUlSBfhvlOqrNenDl3Mhbqol6JM9ZKt4wjkO8YiF1uIGjsqok-GiZkllDeaqyM-KV/s400/IMG_2990.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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There was then something of a hiatus waiting for the castings. During this time I was looking around for a suitable drive. I got in touch with the chaps from the <a href="https://github.com/rene-dev/stmbl" target="_blank">STMBL project </a> who have an open-source drive almost ideal for the actuator (it is a 200V class servo, I will probably be running it on rectified UK mains). Luckily one of them was due to visit London Hackspace the next week, so I popped in too, with a few motors, including the harmonic drive, and was lucky enough to go home with a beta-sample of the V4.0 drive </div>
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Eventually the castings came back. I had 4 cast. One for me, one spare, and two for two other folk who expressed an interest. They came in at £60 each. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsz1hRF4jIH-7_OqQB78rI39ZfoCQA2UC-ORW9L1HQ2o5o3ost-NDIKTa_SwEuoa6NhgV6bK8j55BwzzXVi2Z7CXR63dSeMqB6M8aeNa-BiZ2fbl-w5YH7waAq_vc7vCHh_B8ggUQmw9Gq/s1600/IMG_3022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsz1hRF4jIH-7_OqQB78rI39ZfoCQA2UC-ORW9L1HQ2o5o3ost-NDIKTa_SwEuoa6NhgV6bK8j55BwzzXVi2Z7CXR63dSeMqB6M8aeNa-BiZ2fbl-w5YH7waAq_vc7vCHh_B8ggUQmw9Gq/s400/IMG_3022.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The first job was to square them off, removing the casting draught and making a couple of reference faces. This is something that my Univeral Mill is pretty good at in horizontal mode.<br />
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First the base to the as-cast front face (the mould parting face, to pretty flat)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5kOl_aZmB9gqTCeIB0XB0HC6xfPirScw48NBriuDM3R6QMRPkfH_55SkaKtR15TgKQSDAUv5DA5nckk-rvNEA7f7VnTiPDcTaNJf9Fvcvoq8D5HB-gauYc2l6F7uHldseA6wiT4o7I8E/s1600/IMG_3019+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5kOl_aZmB9gqTCeIB0XB0HC6xfPirScw48NBriuDM3R6QMRPkfH_55SkaKtR15TgKQSDAUv5DA5nckk-rvNEA7f7VnTiPDcTaNJf9Fvcvoq8D5HB-gauYc2l6F7uHldseA6wiT4o7I8E/s400/IMG_3019+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then the front face square to the base. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrimLrS8wZFTvs0A7bML0abIaK8KIfaWWPWs5fiFqqCB-yRorE6yfkzPhf1wh4EnI12RvPVQQGXbq8qt6jvdlvdFcLx9EMoGbhmBZw0AtgC-6Y8jXD4Zk55ejdMGAYTSvQ7F4kSbT_JIJ/s1600/IMG_3021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrimLrS8wZFTvs0A7bML0abIaK8KIfaWWPWs5fiFqqCB-yRorE6yfkzPhf1wh4EnI12RvPVQQGXbq8qt6jvdlvdFcLx9EMoGbhmBZw0AtgC-6Y8jXD4Zk55ejdMGAYTSvQ7F4kSbT_JIJ/s400/IMG_3021.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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For making the bore/seat for the harmonic drive I needed to ensure that the bore was true to the front reference face, so I squared the part on the mill with a dial indicator for perpendicular.</div>
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I then had to decide where in the casting the centre of the hole was. This was, of necessity a rather approximate process as the hole was not round, and the surface not smooth. But I minimised the blur on my coaxial indicator and bored through with my automatic boring head:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz-2UfM99jq1EsvO-V6sUUQ5iKpm0Hd00ESPQaeW12IirVH9C_5a4C_H81Q96OWhZXaPwhHq6kR6PI6RiFLkXCddSi5HWA0muMk1L-zRFxzQK1w22AgbOw3sjqBTyGLhgBoAyN05sjQweF/s1600/IMG_3024+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz-2UfM99jq1EsvO-V6sUUQ5iKpm0Hd00ESPQaeW12IirVH9C_5a4C_H81Q96OWhZXaPwhHq6kR6PI6RiFLkXCddSi5HWA0muMk1L-zRFxzQK1w22AgbOw3sjqBTyGLhgBoAyN05sjQweF/s400/IMG_3024+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The other diameters are bigger, so I had to make a rather Heath Robinson setup with one of the extension bars to enable back-boring. This looked a bit implausible, but actually worked surprisingly well. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgielOSK29G01EE0TFa1It8cE6V2uLFz6N53542ofyso1WcWKXjJVg47t2oArKE7-GQDqHoyuWozF8vOUHTVA6-Yuqj5NNTkua2P8AlapfweMTP-OQXbWMhacJDZCw95avFtgSSlSZEXCgk/s1600/IMG_3027+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgielOSK29G01EE0TFa1It8cE6V2uLFz6N53542ofyso1WcWKXjJVg47t2oArKE7-GQDqHoyuWozF8vOUHTVA6-Yuqj5NNTkua2P8AlapfweMTP-OQXbWMhacJDZCw95avFtgSSlSZEXCgk/s400/IMG_3027+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once the bores were done, I could drill and tap the mounting holes. This could have been done from the chuck-side with through-holes, but I decided to do it the hard way, which required the purchase of a long-series drill and the manufacture of a tap extension:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzwrJaUI9fIH2xBB00I0sSZxXo7JvL90VgsGD6Qshk_cukeT-Xs9pi6aDFspG0MHpAms38YRQzkxw5Hm8JXIoCUeQecI-iHDW5pux1BYFm5B2QKTcGI_Orn_r8vgwKVkg8QNwULQ3nGuUG/s1600/IMG_3031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzwrJaUI9fIH2xBB00I0sSZxXo7JvL90VgsGD6Qshk_cukeT-Xs9pi6aDFspG0MHpAms38YRQzkxw5Hm8JXIoCUeQecI-iHDW5pux1BYFm5B2QKTcGI_Orn_r8vgwKVkg8QNwULQ3nGuUG/s400/IMG_3031.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The only thing remaining was to machine the location grooves in the base to align the head with the table slots. This was actually a problem that exercised my imagination, as the slots need to be exactly aligned under the mounting bore. Here is what I did, I would be interested in other ideas. </div>
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First, I trued the base of the casting to the X axis of the mill:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Ezv9E9Sv8nn5kxoR19KNqx-iQWIxt4NLRJ7HlcjMVojLTlxu0NdlfAXwUDBnXSKNsTIiVxX3q6rRc_FtggqQ-oxdYzO-FSatt4B9-QWK92ZE1xA793veUuuYfFcL3IcWhYAQKRS_3Poj/s1600/IMG_3032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Ezv9E9Sv8nn5kxoR19KNqx-iQWIxt4NLRJ7HlcjMVojLTlxu0NdlfAXwUDBnXSKNsTIiVxX3q6rRc_FtggqQ-oxdYzO-FSatt4B9-QWK92ZE1xA793veUuuYfFcL3IcWhYAQKRS_3Poj/s400/IMG_3032.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then picked up the middle of the bore with my coaxial indicator in the vertical head. </div>
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I then made a reference slot with a 5mm cutter in an area that would be removed by the alignment key slot. This was made to fit a piece of brass with a hole bored as exactly as I could manage in the middle. </div>
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I then switched to the horizontal head and picked up the hole in the piece of brass with my coaxial indicator. I thus found that the axes of my horizontal and vertical spindles are not absolutely exactly coincident, there seems to be a 0.15mm offset. Or I made a 0.15mm error in my work...</div>
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Alignment slots and cut, a coat of paint, and the mechanical work is done, time now to figure out the drivers and HAL connections. Once that is done I can bore the holes for the camlock cams. these are specified at a specific angle from the camlock stud holes, so it makes sense to wait until the head is powered to machine those. </div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-88204150915411872112017-05-13T03:08:00.001-07:002017-05-13T03:08:38.432-07:00Stowe Maries Photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-45981952571308826382017-01-25T14:26:00.001-08:002017-01-25T14:26:08.336-08:00Connecting Thin Gears to ShaftsI have an ongoing project that required me to connect 4 gears to 4 coaxial shafts in the minumum of axial space. To complicate matters the gears needed to be relatively easy to demount.<br />
I Googled for ideas, and didn't really find very much for the sort of miniature gear I am working with (40mm dia)[1]. So I thought I would write a short post about the method I came up with.<br />
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I have used <a href="http://www.fptgroup.com/Taper-Lock-Bushes/" target="_blank">Taperlock bushes</a> quite a few times, and they work extremely well, but don't scale to 3mm thickness particularly well. I have also had great results with <a href="http://www.fennerdrives.com/trantorque/" target="_blank">Trantorque bushes </a>which also work extremely well. We used them to connect the sprockets to the motors of our RobotWars robot, and never had any hint of trouble there. (and that was something that couldn't be said for many other teams). But they need rather more thickness than I had available.<br />
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In the end I came up with a sort-of hybrid system with elements from a number of similar taper-mounting systems.<br />
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There are two 6-degree tapers, one at 27mm notional diameter and the other at between 15 and 12mm diameter depending on the shaft size to be connected to. Both tapers have a depth of 1.5mm and between the two diamters is a ring of 4 M2.5 tapped holes. Additionally the inner tapered collar is split all the way to the bore at one point and to the inner taper at the opposite point.<br />
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I am very happy with the way it worked out. And the grip seems plenty strong enough for my purposes. I was able to use the tapers to mount the gears on a dummy shaft for the hobbing process.<br />
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[1] I realise that for many folk a 40mm gear isn't particularly miniature, but my dad used to work for <a href="https://dbsantasalo.com/industries/cement/pyro-processing/kiln-drives/" target="_blank">David Brown</a> and they can make gears up to <b><i>14 metres </i></b>diameter.bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-17365212930667167062016-11-01T11:53:00.000-07:002016-11-01T11:53:15.354-07:00Cams without CAM<div>
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I am about to start work on a project which needs a complex set of cams. Each cam is a set of 7 or 8 tracks and 6, 10, or 12 positions. I intend to make them by CNC machining.<br />
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This is liable to be a rather dull blog post, so perhaps I should turn things upside-down and show what the final result is:<br />
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The simple way to do this would be to just move the A (rotary) axis while bobbing up and down in Z, but this would not give flat faces on the cams. I could do it with a woodruff-form cutter, but the concave arc radius that I want is too small, so there would be no room for the shank.<br />
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I imagine that, in theory, I could do it with a<a href="http://www.suscom-maine.net/~nsimmons/news/DovetailCutter.JPG" target="_blank"> reverse-dovetail cutter</a> and with the head of the mill tilted. And that might be a thought I come back to, now I have had it.<br />
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I could, also, model the required shape in CAD and let the CAM software do the hard-lifting. But modelling the cams individually would be tedious, and if I change the combinations that I want, then it all needs to be re-modelled.<br />
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So, I have decided to write some parametric G-code for the task. And this blog is actually mainly for my own benefit so that I can remind myself how it was all worked out later.<br />
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Firstly, I have had to remind myself of school-level geometry. The cams will have two basic radiuses: R<sub>major</sub> and R<sub>minor</sub>. Each lobe will have lead-in and lead-out radiuses r.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_kkwYM6cvD2mXkDYjrU7lZvhh6QmRGDtanvcl80YOMgKLCCkfgzadW53Q2YTPJEkaFKhilBeH0BmexNL5mUMU2qcHISThLZUSZXKy9QopBXiLb3CqIgYXTB2x0I1N69SNoIvBo5kh9wpa/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-10-28+at+19.13.24.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_kkwYM6cvD2mXkDYjrU7lZvhh6QmRGDtanvcl80YOMgKLCCkfgzadW53Q2YTPJEkaFKhilBeH0BmexNL5mUMU2qcHISThLZUSZXKy9QopBXiLb3CqIgYXTB2x0I1N69SNoIvBo5kh9wpa/s400/Screen+Shot+2016-10-28+at+19.13.24.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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The external cam profile is the green line. The cutter path (with the axis of the cutter in the plane of the page) will start at the top, then trace the curve around the circle until the straight portion is horizontal, followed by a straight cut until the next transition, then tracing a seconf internal circle.<br />
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The red lines show the centre of each cam lobe, the angle between each cam lobe θ is simply 360/N where N is the number of positions.<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;">θ = 360 / N #50</span></div>
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Each cam has a dwell angle to reduce the need for accurate indexing. The angle ACB is given by<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">φ = θ - 2.dwell </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> #51</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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It isn't immediately obvious from the drawing but the arc radius is not the same as the difference between R<sub>major</sub> and R<sub>minor</sub>. This means that the lines AC and BC are not the same length.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">AC = R<sub>major</sub> - r</span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> #52</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">BC = R<sub>minor</sub> + r</span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> #53</span><br />
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To work out how far the work has to rotate to make the cam flank horizontal we need the angle BAC.<br />
We also need (and it took me a lot of adjusting G-code to realise this) the <i>different </i>angle that the low-to-high cam flanks make to the dwell angle line when cutting in the same (anticlockwise) direction.<br />
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The angle BAC can be worked out from the Cosine Rule (which I had forgotten). For a triangle with angles A, B and C and opposite sides a, b and c:<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">c = a<sup>2</sup></span>+ b<sup>2</sup> - 2ab Cos(C)</i></span><br />
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In this case we first need the distance AB<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">AB = (AC)<sup>2</sup> + (BC)<sup>2</sup> - 2(AC)(BC)Cos(φ) </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">#54</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And the angle from horizontal of line AB can be worked out from the Sine Rule:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>a/Sin(A) = b/Sin(B) = c/Sin(C)</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">In the terms of the geometry above:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">AB/Sin(φ) = BC/Sin(BAC)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">BAC = </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Arcsin(BC * </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sin(</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">φ) / AB) #55</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">so the angle from horizontal</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">90 - Arcsin(BC * </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sin(</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">φ) / AB) #56</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The really important angle, though, is that of the tangent angle, in orange below:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3tUM5I2T2M1W1DG2WNJ6itLQ6CTmNY6IPEFxiIM1vJS36LaEN3f5eBGISGlbUFVSpeKqH7YDs86ILv55oP_OSIAeHuJB3ym83G4n4StnLGv9uHwH1qwp4g_a6azD7XlE9I7924ND_MoL/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-10-28+at+19.57.05.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-3tUM5I2T2M1W1DG2WNJ6itLQ6CTmNY6IPEFxiIM1vJS36LaEN3f5eBGISGlbUFVSpeKqH7YDs86ILv55oP_OSIAeHuJB3ym83G4n4StnLGv9uHwH1qwp4g_a6azD7XlE9I7924ND_MoL/s400/Screen+Shot+2016-10-28+at+19.57.05.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">This is a further λ degrees past the angle (#55) above. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">This is a simple right-angle triangle made up of AB/2 and r</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">λ = Arcsin( 2r / AB) #57</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And the angle from horizontal is:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">90 - Arcsin(BC * </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sin(</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">φ) / AB) <complete id="goog_1971880909">+ </complete></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Arcsin( 2r / AB) #58</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Having got the angle we need to rotate by to get the flank angle for high to low, we can start to think about the cutter path. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">This is the same diagram, but rotated to the correct angle to cut a high-to-low cam flank. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILR2zcMmq-_p_RS5X1Zl5YVq0r4xECcR74N-dRI9obKHUWzAeTC_gRw-rZF7IVOWv8Xwk1rwcHl0aivc5j8i3oBsopfreNf3lceg7rQB4uuD4ysManiM-lPNsrrnhHaEWUcg2tyhEQehJ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-11-01+at+00.42.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILR2zcMmq-_p_RS5X1Zl5YVq0r4xECcR74N-dRI9obKHUWzAeTC_gRw-rZF7IVOWv8Xwk1rwcHl0aivc5j8i3oBsopfreNf3lceg7rQB4uuD4ysManiM-lPNsrrnhHaEWUcg2tyhEQehJ/s400/Screen+Shot+2016-11-01+at+00.42.48.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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The angle klm is the same as the angle that we have rotated the work through, and this is true throughout the initial rotation. So the tool needs to track a point perpendicularly above the arc centre, l. This is a point given by:</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Y = ( R<sub>major</sub> - r</span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> ) Sin(klm)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Z = ( R<sub>major</sub> - r</span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> ) Cos(klm) + r</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">and the first arc radius is cut by tracking this position as the work rotates. There then needs to be a straight move from A to B. This starts at the point above, and stops at a point perpendicularly below point p. Point p is:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Y = ( R<sub>minor</sub> <complete id="goog_708432539">+</complete> r</span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> ) Sin(kpq)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Z = ( R<sub>minor</sub> + r</span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> ) Cos(kpq) + r</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">And all we need to do to define that point is work out the angle kpq.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I noticed when checking my calculations agains a CAD model that the angle kpq is the "other" cam flank angle, and is given by </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;">kpq = klm - </span><span style="font-family: "\22 verdana\22 " , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: '"verdana"', sans-serif;">φ (or in G-code terms #58 - #51)</span><span style="font-family: '"verdana"', sans-serif;"> #59</span><br />
<span style="font-family: '"verdana"', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">I haven't actually done the construction to see why this is, I leave it as an excrcise for the reader ;-)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The low-to-high transition is defined by the same two angles, starting with a rotation to angle kpq (#59) to a point defined by angle klm (#58)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">With the governing numbers now calculatable we can start to think about G-code. First set up the basic geometry:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<r_major> = 32.5 ; top radius</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<r_minor> = 22.5 ; bottom radius</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<groove> = 20 ; groove radius</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<ramp_r> = 3 ; radius of ramp transitions</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<dwell> = 3 ; half-angle of cam dwell</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<gap> = 0 ; gap width</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<width> = 10 ; cam width</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<tool_dia> = 6 ; tool dia</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<cut> = 2 ; cut depth (radial)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<depth> = 2 ; cut depth (axial)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<rows> = 1 ; number of rows</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<pos> = 10 ; number of positions</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And the feed rates. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<s> = 1000 ; spindle speed</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<lin_feed> = 5000 ; Feed rate linear</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<ang_feed> = [#<lin_feed> * 360 / [2 * 3.14 * #<r_major>]] ; Angular feed ra</span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;">te</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The cam shapes are encoded in "decimal coded binary" in that these are actually decimal numbers because G-code doesn't have binary constants or bitwise operators, but a 1 means R<sub>major</sub> and a 0 means R<sub>minor</sub>. Handily, G-code allows computed variable names, if </span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;">#22 = 3</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> then </span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;">#[40 + #22] </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">returns the value of </span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;">#43.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> 7 rows of 10 positions</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></div>
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<div>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">; 0123456789AB</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#41 = 1010011111 ;bottom</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#42 = 1100111111 ;bottom right</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#43 = 1010001010 ;bottom left</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#44 = 0011111011 ;middle</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#45 = 1101100111 ;top right</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#46 = 1010111011 ;top left</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#47 = 1011011111 ;top</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Set up some variables to hold current position. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<X> = [[#<rows> + 1] * #<gap> + #<rows> * #<width> - [#<tool_dia> / 2]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<Y> = 0</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<Z> = #<r_major></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">#<A> = #<_A> ; start at the current A value</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Start the spindle and set up some potentially useful params. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">M3 S#<s></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">G4 P2</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">F #<lin_feed></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">G19 ; YZ Arcs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">G91.1 ; Absolute Arc centres</span></div>
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O100 is the outer loop, looping through the number of cams. Between each cam is an (optional) gap<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;">O100 WHILE [#<rows> GT -1]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> ;cut a space</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<cut_a> = [[#<gap> - #<tool_dia>] / FUP[[#<gap> - #<tool_dia>] / #<cut>]] ; adjusted cut</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<depth_a> = [[#<r_major> - #<groove>] / FUP[[#<r_major> - #<groove>] / #<depth>]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> (debug, adjusted cut is #<cut_a> x #<depth_a>)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<X> = [[#<rows> + 1] * #<gap> + #<rows> * #<width> - [#<tool_dia> / 2]] ; X</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O200 WHILE [#<X> GE [#<rows> * #<gap> + #<rows> * #<width> + [#<tool_dia> / 2]]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G0 Z[#<Z> + #<cut>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G0 X#<X> Y#<Y> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O201 WHILE [#<Z> GT #<groove>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<Z> = [#<Z> - #<depth_a>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<lin_feed> Z#<Z> A[#<A> - 20]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [#<A> - 390]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<ang_feed> A#<A></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O201 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<Z> = #<r_major></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<X> = [#<X> - #<cut_a>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O200 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">O300 is the loop along X to cut the cam in multiple passes. Each cut starts with finding somewhere on the cam that is high rather than low. The #<h> parameter is how we find a "bit" in the decimal-coded binary cam pattern. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O300 WHILE [#<X> GE [#<rows> * #<gap> + [#<rows> - 1] * #<width> - [#<tool_dia> / 2]] AND #<rows> GT 0]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G0 Z[#<r_major> + #<cut>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G0 X#<X> Y0</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [360 * FIX[#<A> / 360]] ;reset to index</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G0 A#<A></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> ;find a high spot to start </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<index> = 0 ; cam index</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<h> = [FIX[#24 / [10 ** [#<pos> - #<index>]] MOD 10]] ; are we high or are we low?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<old_h> = 1 ; old level (#<h>)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O301 WHILE [#<h> EQ 0]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<index> = [#<index> + 1]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [#<A> + #50]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<h> = [FIX[#24 / [10 ** [#<pos> - #<index>]] MOD 10]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O301 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">O400 is a loop in Z-depth. First an adapted cut-depth is calculated to make up the distance from R<sub>major</sub> and R<sub>minor </sub>in an integer number of cuts, then the apparent position of the </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">R</span><sub style="font-family: inherit;">minor </sub><span style="font-family: inherit;">arc circle is moved in by this amount each iteration. This isn't the most efficient way possible, but skipping the air-cuts is more trouble than I care for. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O400 WHILE [#<r_temp> GE #<r_minor>] ; work down in depth</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<r_temp> = [#<r_temp> - #<depth_a>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> ; Calculate geometric parameters</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #50 = [360 / #<pos>] ; cam-to-cam angle</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #51 = [#50 - #<dwell>] ; transition centre angle</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #52 = [#<r_major> - #<ramp_r>] ; transition high arc centre radius</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #53 = [#<r_temp> + #<ramp_r>] ; transition low arc centre radius (current)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #54 = [52**2 * 53**2 - 2*52*53*COS[51]] ; transition centre distance</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #55 = [90 - ASIN[#53 * SIN[51] / #54] ; transition centre angle from vertical</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #56 = [#55 + ASIN[2 * #<ramp_r> / #55] ; cam flank angle</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 X#<X> Y#<Y> Z #<Z> F #<lin_feed></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And then we calculate whether the required move is an up, a down, or a stay-the-same for each position round the cam. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> </span><span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 X#<X> Y#<Y> Z #<Z> F #<lin_feed></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O302 REPEAT [#<pos>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<index> = [[#<index> + 1] MOD #<pos>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<h> = [FIX[#24 / [10 ** [#<pos> - 1 - #<index>]] MOD 10]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And make a move accordingly:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O303 IF [#<old_h> GT #<h>] ; high-to-low move</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [#<A> + #<dwell>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<ang_feed> A#<A></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = 0</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3031 WHILE [#30 LT #58]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #31 = [-#52 * SIN[#30]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #32 = [#52 * COS[#30] + #<ramp_r>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #33 = [#<A> + #30]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<lin_feed> Y#31 Z#32 A#33</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = [#30 + 0.1]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3031 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = [#59]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3032 WHILE [#30 GE 0]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #31 = [-#53 * SIN[#30]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #32 = [#53 * COS[#30] - #<ramp_r>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #33 = [#<A> + #30 + #51]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<lin_feed> Y#31 Z#32 A#33</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = [#30 - 0.1]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3032 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [#<A> + #51 + #<dwell>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<ang_feed> A#<A></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O303 ELSEIF [#<old_h> LT #<h>] ; low to high move</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [#<A> + #<dwell>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<ang_feed> A#<A></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = 0</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3033 WHILE [#30 LT #59]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #31 = [#53 * SIN[#30]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #32 = [#53 * COS[#30] - #<ramp_r>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #33 = [#<A> - #30 ]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<lin_feed> Y#31 Z#32 A#33</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = [#30 + 0.1]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3033 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = #58</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3034 WHILE [#30 GE 0]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #31 = [#52 * SIN[#30]]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #32 = [#52 * COS[#30] + #<ramp_r>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #33 = [#<A> + #51 - #30 ]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<lin_feed> Y#31 Z#32 A#33</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #30 = [#30 - 0.1]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O3034 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [#<A> + #51 + #<dwell>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<ang_feed> A#<A></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O303 ELSE ; remain at the same level</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<A> = [#<A> + #50]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> G1 F#<ang_feed> A#<A></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O303 ENDIF</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Then all that remains is to store the previous height to determine what the next move is, and close the loops. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<old_h> = #<h></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O302 ENDREPEAT</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O400 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<X> = [#<X> - #<cut_a>]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> O300 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"> #<rows> = [#<rows> - 1]</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;">O100 ENDWHILE</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Courier New, Courier, monospace; font-size: xx-small;">M2</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">This ends up as a total of 160 lines of G-code that can make any cam of this type. It is trivial to make changes to the geometry and to the cam pattern. Compare that to the nature of the G-code produced to do the same thing with a CAM package. And, in the case of using a CAM package to make a cam, any change to the cam pattern would be a great deal of tedious re-modelling and a re-processing of the model </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-27405221223110384962016-10-02T08:22:00.002-07:002017-11-12T03:18:31.541-08:00The last few detailsThe last post ended with the machine working and capable of making parts, but there were still a few more things to add to make the lathe properly useful.<br />
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<h3>
Spindle Encoder</h3>
<div>
A spindle encoder is necessary for a CNC lathe if the lathe is going to be able to cut threads. As this lathe is using <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resolver_(electrical)" target="_blank">resolvers</a> for axis feedback it seemed easiest to use them for the spindle too. </div>
<div>
The spindle resolver needs to turn at exactly the same speed as the spindle. I considered <a href="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertical-mill-lathe-project-log/109301-cnc-post1212353.html#post1212353" target="_blank">using gears like I did on the milling machine</a> and also looked into the possibility of using skewed gears as are used in speedometer drives. But in the end I settled on a simple belt drive. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZRt5xyN-UG8T0Gvb0NndlkCaWhyphenhyphenuZpSgA0yObYArNd4PkdI_mTyOqssf62_0hErN_UFyAozxdc0PTQ7jVF-PZUdyLepxcuJSiuoujVAx6aDKVyk_KudxTw5VrjGe6eODTyqx8tX9d8uEN/s1600/IMG_2602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZRt5xyN-UG8T0Gvb0NndlkCaWhyphenhyphenuZpSgA0yObYArNd4PkdI_mTyOqssf62_0hErN_UFyAozxdc0PTQ7jVF-PZUdyLepxcuJSiuoujVAx6aDKVyk_KudxTw5VrjGe6eODTyqx8tX9d8uEN/s400/IMG_2602.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It is indicative of how much Holbrook liked to over-build their lathes that I was able to fit a resolver into the hole vacated by the first-gear shaft of the original change-wheels. In fact I was able to mount the resolver in an eccentric bush so that belt tension can be adjusted. </div>
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<h3>
Z-screw Steady</h3>
<div>
If you watched the video in the last post in this series you might have noticed that the tailstock end of the Z-axis screw was just waving about in the air, and was unprotected. The original leadscrew bearing housing was unusable simply because the holes were in the wrong place. And, also, the leadscrew bearings were one of the things missing from the lathe when I got it. </div>
<div>
The steady needs to house a bearing and the helical-spring cover, so ended up actually quite big. </div>
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First I had to make a pattern:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM8EJsZ6QYODnq-xXbm9IVC_ZeGBJMX07RYSTvJVKDDAZfhc6ACOxwwGJMrqZFRgkbOi9qkwVtGjSi4SwypkhfvgjhkLoXFeXe1vpb5-bILcomGbFNem0N6poEnz-4ZYfP-lIbe5gj_JY2/s1600/IMG_2731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM8EJsZ6QYODnq-xXbm9IVC_ZeGBJMX07RYSTvJVKDDAZfhc6ACOxwwGJMrqZFRgkbOi9qkwVtGjSi4SwypkhfvgjhkLoXFeXe1vpb5-bILcomGbFNem0N6poEnz-4ZYfP-lIbe5gj_JY2/s400/IMG_2731.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then machine the raw casting when it came back from the foundry:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVVP2sxu3oXws_-j89NH2rEcpIHKyuaK7iGiOAVLk_F6oaYK1Yy4VCvFv_lxfGiPuZ60DaIs3XkwpMr2WbWUPrMOz2k5XizzK8rNpP58MYdc9tVngLcSE0lww2x35qJ7PeMz7Dn99bvQm/s1600/IMG_2639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVVP2sxu3oXws_-j89NH2rEcpIHKyuaK7iGiOAVLk_F6oaYK1Yy4VCvFv_lxfGiPuZ60DaIs3XkwpMr2WbWUPrMOz2k5XizzK8rNpP58MYdc9tVngLcSE0lww2x35qJ7PeMz7Dn99bvQm/s400/IMG_2639.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then finally paint it and assemble it onto the lathe. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz22rLtxgGwtPXO2CZFNzRcujtHX5VSAtsexHNnLC3NQwwOT7Refe9Td-YpP35cbHjnD-iQIt7sjSBQwx2ltvgyvdJj_NpZdnzP5W8oXTzg5p_BVgUPj33GLpzElBSWXOVjE5x7L5tmp8X/s1600/IMG_2643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz22rLtxgGwtPXO2CZFNzRcujtHX5VSAtsexHNnLC3NQwwOT7Refe9Td-YpP35cbHjnD-iQIt7sjSBQwx2ltvgyvdJj_NpZdnzP5W8oXTzg5p_BVgUPj33GLpzElBSWXOVjE5x7L5tmp8X/s400/IMG_2643.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<h3>
Bed Wipers</h3>
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As well as the saddle Gib and the Z-screw bearings, another irritating thing missing from the lathe was the bed wipers. So I had to make some. It turned out to be quite a time-consuming job. </div>
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Pictures of original wipers show a simple flat plate and a rubber/celluloid/whatever strip, but I fancied something a bit fancier. I machined a block of steel to the right size and rounded-over the corners. I then used this as a former around which a shallow stainless-steel tray could be made. To make the material form the corners properly I had to get the metal red-hot to forge it. The tray started off 6mm deep, just because folding over a small flange is too hard. I then cut it down with a Dremel cutting disk then finally sanded it with the power-file to the right depth. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga1Ziqx6v0qqjuRqG9vKGikXcDazv8KaN62lcX5kzpDrXqe12lnOcyMQWT2hUi6tboWjh1xH5-dowRUuksMsgu7iDIiLp75MXp2zmHke44M03F5Lhg9m6n5ddjHNEJYVWSmUfo6EHCrzql/s1600/IMG_2723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga1Ziqx6v0qqjuRqG9vKGikXcDazv8KaN62lcX5kzpDrXqe12lnOcyMQWT2hUi6tboWjh1xH5-dowRUuksMsgu7iDIiLp75MXp2zmHke44M03F5Lhg9m6n5ddjHNEJYVWSmUfo6EHCrzql/s400/IMG_2723.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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For wiper material I decided to use some HDPE cutting mat material I had lying about. The notch for the vee of the bed was simply filed with a square file. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQXuVp1-EE2PasWvFvwTZD4S_w-wI9FXMs_W_Gm4GYDXoWWOmQbzGsTTyKSKVmchBwOwa7xqsT4MoZEZSE-qAknv_oO_9ui2dxRq8JOZV-LPAONVhG92pAqErL-5v6BMZXMAy4WNgTkodk/s1600/IMG_2724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQXuVp1-EE2PasWvFvwTZD4S_w-wI9FXMs_W_Gm4GYDXoWWOmQbzGsTTyKSKVmchBwOwa7xqsT4MoZEZSE-qAknv_oO_9ui2dxRq8JOZV-LPAONVhG92pAqErL-5v6BMZXMAy4WNgTkodk/s400/IMG_2724.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To get the screws in the right place I made a marking-stud. This was a piece of a bolt of the correct thread machined to a point. I Dremelled two slots in the edges of the pointed face to allow me to insert and extract the screw with one of those security screwdriver bits, like a normal flat-blade with a notch in the middle. </div>
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In the picture below you can see that it does, indeed, wipe the bed. I am not totally happy with the cap-head screws. They look wrong. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYq-43PaVVhazPrAdggjZ5l-Zvt2G07559Er8R2nbxCIgJgc3z7CJNgHbXIZtHuHRzkjH7ff0-K6_3CixZX6yX3TOrkDWrZ09CKjSTJYkO8H1ctxOhWL66s1NZnIUDIZSgLr8HZ5lr992/s1600/IMG_2726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYq-43PaVVhazPrAdggjZ5l-Zvt2G07559Er8R2nbxCIgJgc3z7CJNgHbXIZtHuHRzkjH7ff0-K6_3CixZX6yX3TOrkDWrZ09CKjSTJYkO8H1ctxOhWL66s1NZnIUDIZSgLr8HZ5lr992/s400/IMG_2726.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Manx-inspired chuck-key. </h3>
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I have three chucks each of which have different chuck-key requirements. They all came to me without a chuck key. So I decided to make one key to operate all of the chucks and the D1 spindle nose clamps too. This was a pretty easy job using some <a href="http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Fixtures/ER32-Collet-Blocks" target="_blank">hexagonal and square collet blocks</a> that I have. I am not sure if the silver-soldered joint in the middle will hold-up to prolonged use. I might need a triangular block in the middle. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3T-dflipk2q-Wr5g9kfDKNR-FOx4fZH-Fkg39hXnjptJ9POVHFyyHDnmmklu3k4xKO-WptovyVXggS2-vGSg14VC8ebe0RCQGrz8PbfliDjTLWPxCzBbWYVsWBRTvXXA3CBv8aUvshf1g/s1600/IMG_2642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3T-dflipk2q-Wr5g9kfDKNR-FOx4fZH-Fkg39hXnjptJ9POVHFyyHDnmmklu3k4xKO-WptovyVXggS2-vGSg14VC8ebe0RCQGrz8PbfliDjTLWPxCzBbWYVsWBRTvXXA3CBv8aUvshf1g/s400/IMG_2642.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The finished lathe. </h3>
And here it is all (very nearly) finished. The control panel is a mock-up to see how it works and what I really need. I am keeping an eye out on eBay for better buttons and indicators, and I do intend to make a panel out of brass with raised legends, just like Holbrook did. But I want to make sure that I have all the right controls in the right places first.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfyhXZo7hDRVia2n80R_SfIjO1Rdn9t3RTor-hHeXBsFhqWzZet7vUz98VhkplqicJWho2JEhjCEJauBLh6whDwf83QMMMDijRhk-kN-YxvriNO3MPxlM-k4KemhbuaeGDB12SKbbxheDW/s1600/IMG_2670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfyhXZo7hDRVia2n80R_SfIjO1Rdn9t3RTor-hHeXBsFhqWzZet7vUz98VhkplqicJWho2JEhjCEJauBLh6whDwf83QMMMDijRhk-kN-YxvriNO3MPxlM-k4KemhbuaeGDB12SKbbxheDW/s640/IMG_2670.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-59617278954999889772016-08-24T15:00:00.001-07:002016-08-24T16:31:22.111-07:00X-axis driveThe previous post (some considerable time ago) ended on a slightly downbeat note as I had found significant bed wear. Well, the good news is that it seems to have largely gone away. I don't know what happened, maybe things were a bit out of place and have now settled down, but the wear is now just enough to make the carriage a bit tight at the tailstock end, rather than enough to make it loose at the chuck end, so I decided to press on with the rest of the project. First I tightened the nut retaining the Z-screw, which turned out to be a slightly interesting task, so here is a picture. I used a large ring spanner on the nut, and then used an ER32 collet chuck on the bearing surface of the other end to apply the counter-torque. Luckily this lathe is 20" between centres and not 60".<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_5qAhIJK7Q8/Vy06RQbZRSI/AAAAAAAAGhs/7dhcmct6MDgzK_E-qHSq6WreEocEIyY0wCPcB/s1600/IMG_2486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_5qAhIJK7Q8/Vy06RQbZRSI/AAAAAAAAGhs/7dhcmct6MDgzK_E-qHSq6WreEocEIyY0wCPcB/s400/IMG_2486.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I had previously ordered a casting to contain the X axis drive chain, and the first thing to do was to machine it and prepare the housing for the angular-contact bearings. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9dR1Pe0qONg/Vy04-vQMLNI/AAAAAAAAGfo/9A6Fa5v7KsEZ7MTCZqxdrz36GuRdQ2tDwCPcB/s1600/IMG_2385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9dR1Pe0qONg/Vy04-vQMLNI/AAAAAAAAGfo/9A6Fa5v7KsEZ7MTCZqxdrz36GuRdQ2tDwCPcB/s400/IMG_2385.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The bearing preload is supplied by a screwed-in cap, with hole spacing to suit the pin-spanner of my angle grinder:<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LnEykDslqiw/VttwA-VX_5I/AAAAAAAAGVs/q0XbtOHW-1cxWTOgHUqgga47MlWfU1ISgCPcB/s1600/IMG_2387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LnEykDslqiw/VttwA-VX_5I/AAAAAAAAGVs/q0XbtOHW-1cxWTOgHUqgga47MlWfU1ISgCPcB/s400/IMG_2387.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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At this point I made the first irreversible change to the lathe. I cut off the extension that the taper-turning attachment connects to. My lathe came without the taper-turner anyway, but it still felt like a step too far. However my workshop is small (very small), and with the lathe close to the wall, the extension hits the wall before the tool gets to the centre-line, so it had to go. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ww4DNiBDbY/Vy05KjsrscI/AAAAAAAAGf8/VfMIIBKWUnEkMNL45VbF8uLy2lSIPuxVgCPcB/s1600/IMG_2390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ww4DNiBDbY/Vy05KjsrscI/AAAAAAAAGf8/VfMIIBKWUnEkMNL45VbF8uLy2lSIPuxVgCPcB/s400/IMG_2390.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I also needed to slightly increase the size of pocket in the slide to make room for the ballnut. I had tried all sorts of ways to squeeze it in without doing this, but it was just too difficult. Only 1mm in width and 2mm in depth needed. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1nwyalYqKRY/V0yyYt0EqoI/AAAAAAAAGlw/vPYD5W11X1cWMTRJUovk1I8sdcVNKUxEwCPcB/s1600/IMG_2391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1nwyalYqKRY/V0yyYt0EqoI/AAAAAAAAGlw/vPYD5W11X1cWMTRJUovk1I8sdcVNKUxEwCPcB/s400/IMG_2391.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And here is the screw and nut in place. The block clamps round the ballnut thread, and then the threaded hole is how the cross-slide is connected. </div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oHg18U7E7l8/VtuIIpsd3QI/AAAAAAAAGV4/kWNAS5dBnHoKrWUsjHPWAuSueZSypkINQCPcB/s1600/IMG_2395.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oHg18U7E7l8/VtuIIpsd3QI/AAAAAAAAGV4/kWNAS5dBnHoKrWUsjHPWAuSueZSypkINQCPcB/s400/IMG_2395.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The new screw does not sit in exactly the same place as the old screw. I thought long and hard how to bore the new housing for the end-bearing in the correct location, and finally came up with the idea pictured below. I pushed the slide all the way back so that the nut was right against the back face, snugged up the gib and tightened the slide-to-nut screw. Then I squodged epoxy putty into the gap around the ball screw end (which had been previously machined for a bearing). When the epoxy was set I was able to unbolt the cross-slide and slide it off, then centre my coaxial indicator on the centre-hole in the end of the screw to exactly align the horizontal milling spindle with the screw. Then the screw was tapped/prised out and the bearing housing was bored with my Wohlhaupter boring head. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-01Cw_ej4ak0/Vy05YqiZP-I/AAAAAAAAGgU/oJpuoZRF9fUEB6B-0WwErPUYGVvtTgy4wCPcB/s1600/IMG_2397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-01Cw_ej4ak0/Vy05YqiZP-I/AAAAAAAAGgU/oJpuoZRF9fUEB6B-0WwErPUYGVvtTgy4wCPcB/s400/IMG_2397.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The next three pics show how I made a path for a proximity sensor cable (the X-axis home and limit switch) back into the apron casting where the electronics is. I used a CAD package to work out the compound angle required to get from the proximity sensor bore up and over the V-way and into the leadscrew tunnel. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lZnLAT5N4ms/Vt9bjTjOiEI/AAAAAAAAGYQ/pHqJqW2_Y6M8qKL346YiXo5zsDFXl5p0gCPcB/s1600/IMG_2408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lZnLAT5N4ms/Vt9bjTjOiEI/AAAAAAAAGYQ/pHqJqW2_Y6M8qKL346YiXo5zsDFXl5p0gCPcB/s400/IMG_2408.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rniEHSKbBag/Vt9bkUAuY2I/AAAAAAAAGYQ/V8eOZzQ8kwEzaVxNsC8BsyJhHaMmtGjfACPcB/s1600/IMG_2410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rniEHSKbBag/Vt9bkUAuY2I/AAAAAAAAGYQ/V8eOZzQ8kwEzaVxNsC8BsyJhHaMmtGjfACPcB/s400/IMG_2410.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-26aww4XNFcY/Vy05jIqn-OI/AAAAAAAAGgk/j10bna0zHzkGQtCRDVOOyFDToRTXjxeMACPcB/s1600/IMG_2411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-26aww4XNFcY/Vy05jIqn-OI/AAAAAAAAGgk/j10bna0zHzkGQtCRDVOOyFDToRTXjxeMACPcB/s400/IMG_2411.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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All blanked off by a little phosphor bronze plate. No reason for the material, except I had some in the right thickness. </div>
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The proximity sensor uses two shallow holes milled in the underside of the cross-slide as targets for homing and limit. In normal use it is never exposed, the photo below was taken with the connecting screw removed and the slide pushed back. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmHsRaS57XFqR0wdG7d663WGnCk_WgXrkWSPcV1s6dph9pRF363WwSSou0CJoSKJ2vlc3ZBcMX4IdH83uL0WWbbxfoZ4Rz2i-oVe5DBj9uhmyMZ0OT2SJ5BPjqqpKtGq3nt0XhIMv3UHZ/s1600/IMG_2676.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmHsRaS57XFqR0wdG7d663WGnCk_WgXrkWSPcV1s6dph9pRF363WwSSou0CJoSKJ2vlc3ZBcMX4IdH83uL0WWbbxfoZ4Rz2i-oVe5DBj9uhmyMZ0OT2SJ5BPjqqpKtGq3nt0XhIMv3UHZ/s400/IMG_2676.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Also visible in the photo above are the oil grooves for the oiling system, and the fact that I made a new, shorter, gib-adjusting screw out of a shoulder socket screw because I had a clearance problem. </div>
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The oiling system is fed from an oil sump in the apron, and feeds oil to the cross-slide and saddle ways. I don't think it lubricated the compound or the screw directly. I thought about an electronically controlled oiler based on a solenoid, but decided not to bother. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lr2JCCMrzP8/Vy05mxbeHnI/AAAAAAAAGg0/UgdEsbGlw5wrck-1H0cJNT63BwsAMQGZwCPcB/s1600/IMG_2417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lr2JCCMrzP8/Vy05mxbeHnI/AAAAAAAAGg0/UgdEsbGlw5wrck-1H0cJNT63BwsAMQGZwCPcB/s400/IMG_2417.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is the new pump piston, which simply fits in a bore in the apron casting. I had made provision for this in the casting shape, though I had perhaps not given quite as much thought as I should to the oil routing from the pump to the saddle. I ended up with a very wiggly copper pipe and a drilled grub-screw at each end to swage it and hold it in a counter-sunk hole. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fwDulJsuidY/Vy05pXso4aI/AAAAAAAAGf4/VO9WL9nMbaUceESO6x2X1Bi_0t-RxVgSACPcB/s1600/IMG_2421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fwDulJsuidY/Vy05pXso4aI/AAAAAAAAGf4/VO9WL9nMbaUceESO6x2X1Bi_0t-RxVgSACPcB/s400/IMG_2421.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Around this time (looking at the photo dates) I decided to move the VFD nearer to the motor and further from the PC to make a bit more space. This was partly necessitated by the purchase of a rather bigger VFD, as the first one seemed to struggle a lot. I am not sure why, but the 3hp VFD over-currented at 12A whereas the new 4hp VFD runs the motor nicely at a max of 6A. </div>
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Anyway, whatever the reason, I made a bracket:</div>
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And mounted the VFD in the new position. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBYzbdv6AmA/Vy05yHY-HcI/AAAAAAAAG1g/zzYP0U4a5X8s-GSvkiH_tzHkfjNPxCzIACPcB/s1600/IMG_2448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBYzbdv6AmA/Vy05yHY-HcI/AAAAAAAAG1g/zzYP0U4a5X8s-GSvkiH_tzHkfjNPxCzIACPcB/s400/IMG_2448.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In a fit of zeal, I started painting things with <a href="http://www.smithandallan.com/products/tractol-paint/" target="_blank">Tractol Paint</a>, recommended somewhere on the Internet for painting machine tools. I chose <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">7031 - Blue Grey as the colour, which I thought was close to the original Holbrook colour, though in practice is a bit more blue. </span></div>
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If you are wondering why the sudden switch away from the X-axis drive and onto other things, it was because I moved the lathe to the other side of the workshop to get to the VFD and motor. This also seemed like a good time to fit the monitor post and to paint the back of the lathe and rear covers.</div>
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As part of my policy of not having any visible wires (my first retrofit is positively festooned with them) I led the wires up through the bed, up the monitor tube, and out the top. </div>
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Much late-night cogitation was expended in figuring out how to mount the X-axis servo in such a way that the chain tension could be adjusted without taking the saddle off the machine. (A more than slightly tedious process)</div>
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In the end I came up with the idea of using a mounting plate with two T-slots, clamped up by the two lower screws that hold the chain cover, and with a second screw up through the bottom to apply a tension adjustment. </div>
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And here it is in place, except with much shorter screws and minus the chain cover. The sprocket drive is taken through another tapered interface between the sprocket carrier and the ballscrew. Morse-like angle but a non-Morse dimension. One nut clamps the bearing inners against a thin spacer, and pulls the taper into the sprocket carrier. Having learned my lesson with the Z-screw there is a little hex milled on the end of the X-screw to apply counter-torque. </div>
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I had decided to have a pair of jogwheels on the actual apron. If I had planned these in time their bosses could have been part of the apron casting, but perhaps that would have been a step too far. I machined some aluminium mounting plates, and wired them to a <a href="http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=116&search=7i73" target="_blank">Mesa 7i73</a> inside the apron. This also interfaces the proximity sensors and an extra rotary switch which will eventually adjust the jog-increment. It also has a push-action button included, though I haven't yet decided on a function for that. Any ideas? All the IO is interfaced through a single CAT5 cable this way, which seems like a good plan when it all runs in a cable chain. I got <a href="https://www.rapidonline.com/lappkabel-2170489-unitronic-ethernet-blue-data-cable-4x2x0-12mm-od-6-3mm-49-1790" target="_blank">special oil-resistant cable-chain rated wire</a>. </div>
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A stainless box protects the end of the cable chain for the apron. The cable chain contains the CAT5 for the 7i73, the servo motor power cable and some special resolver/encoder cable I found on eBay. </div>
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It was all a bit floppy and awkward at this point as I made the connections to the motor and 7i73. The motor uses a pair of Lemo connectors and the CAT5 is just a normal RJ45 plug. Which feels like two ends of the connector-quality spectrum. </div>
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The cables were pulled through a conduit. Not after some struggles, and in fact I had to split the bend in half and re-assemble with cable ties to get the cables round the tight corner.<br />
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I was then able to assemble the lathe and start making parts!</div>
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Which seems like a reasonable place to end this edition of the blog. I hope both my readers are still awake :-)</div>
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bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-25767426995279508702016-06-05T10:44:00.001-07:002016-06-05T10:44:40.288-07:00Re-keying Euro-cylinder locks. I recently managed to lose my house keys. I don't know quite what happened, but I came down one morning to find my front door open and my house keys (but nothing else) missing.<br />
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Soon after I moved in I had changed all the locks to use the same key, by buying a keyed-alike set of locks from locksonline. So the front and back doors, garage door, shed door and garden gate are all on the same key. That's 6 locks and 12 cylinders.<br />
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Knowing that somebody out there had my keys, and knew which house they belonged to wasn't super-comfortable so I made things secure by putting back some of the old locks and leaving a key in the lock on the inside on others. (You can't get a key into one side of a euro-cylinder lock if there is a key already in the other side that it turned slightly. )<br />
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I was going to get a whole new set of locks, but that looked like costing at least £140 even for cheap locks, so I decided to see if I could just re-key the existing set of locks. I found lots of information on the internet, but most of those were starting with a picked lock, not a lock to which you have a key. And whereas I can pick locks reasonably well, I didn't want to do 12 of them in an afternoon.<br />
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With a conventional cylinder lock you can simply withdraw the unlocked cylinder and slide a plug in from the back to retain the pins. This isn't an option with a Euro-cylinder, you need a special "keying shoe". These are available very cheaply, so I made one.<br />
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It is a bit of aluminium bar with a groove milled in it, and a bent bit of piano wire (1.6mm). I had to grind the piano wire to a square-ish section to allow it to fit nicely into the bottom of the lock key-slot. </div>
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The first thing to do is to remove the circlip from one side. There are special tools, but I just used 2 screwdrivers. The photo above isn't really very good, because I was trying to hold two screwdrivers and a phone camera. And ran out of limbs.</div>
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The second "special tool" you need to go with the pinning shoe is a key with the back milled off. You could file it off, it would work fine, but I had the mill set up and running so I used that. </div>
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You put in the special key, rotate the cylinder by 180 degrees, then slide in the pinning shoe and slide out the key, pins and cylinder. </div>
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Here you can see the cylinder removed and also see how the bent wire holds all the pins and springs in place. </div>
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This is the new key with the existing pins re-arranged. The key was a blank bought from the local key-cutter. I marked the pin positions by passing a drill down the pin holes, then filed them to height to suit the new pin order. If you were very lucky you might find that you had a key that already fitted the permuted pins. </div>
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It is probably worth describing the re-assembly procedure. It is possible to get the key and the cam 180 degrees out of phase. </div>
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You won't be able to slide in the barrel with the new key fitted, and if you can slide it in with the modified key then you haven't changed anything. </div>
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Do not forget to put the spacer-blocks back in. The way that a Euro-cylinder works is that the key pushes a widget into engagement with the cam. There are spacer blocks to make up for the many possible cylinder lengths. Having put the cylinder back together leaving out those blocks would be annoying, as you would then need to make a cut-back version of the <i>new </i>key. Luckily I noticed in time. </div>
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Push the barrel in far enough to hold the pins down, but not quite all the way. Then withdraw the keying shoe. </div>
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Put the cam somewhere in the rest position, ie pointing towards the retaining screw hole, then rotate the cylinder into the normal orientation. When it is close you should be able to engage it with the cam and also let all the pins drop home. Your new key should now open the lock. But be very careful, as it is easy to pull the whole cylinder out at this point and all the springs will go everywhere. Don't ask me how I know this. It is possible to re-insert the springs and top pins, starting from the front of the lock and working back with tweezers and sliding the pinning shoe in one pin at a time. But it's tedious and fiddly. I told you not to ask how I know. </div>
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Put the circlip back, and do the other half. </div>
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When you have the rhythm it's a pretty quick job, less than 10 minutes per lock. </div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-22575334545734558382016-02-29T16:30:00.002-08:002016-02-29T16:33:22.250-08:00Holbrook: Movement at lastIn the <a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/holbrook5.html">last instalment</a> I had the Z axis motor mounted and the Z-screw ready to install. But the apron casting still needed a hole through it, and a socket for the ballscrew.<br />
First, though, I needed to make a new gib strip to suit the new apron. I couldn't use the old one, as that had gone missing at some point during the rebuild prematurely curtailed by the demise of a previous owner.<br />
I had a couple of strips of iron cast for the job. I have<a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/rivett-lathe-slideway-refurb-as.html"> previously made a gib from a length of round Durabar,</a> and it took an awfully long time. Part of the problem was that the round bar was difficult to hold while machining-away most of it.<br />
For this gib I made a fixture to hold it, a lump of aluminium with a slot milled in it and a bunch of allen screws:<br />
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I machined it to as close as possible to the same taper as the groove I had machined in the apron casting (CNC makes this really rather easy) then scraped it to final fit to blue using an arrangment of edge-clamps on the mill table to stop it sliding about.</div>
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And here it is in-situ. No adjusting screw yet.</div>
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At this point it became evident that the bed is worn near the headstock end, the gib wants to be about 20mm further in at that end than at the tailstock end. I am trying to decide what to do about that. I got a quote for a regrind (£940) but that includes a lot of work that I don't need, such at Turcite under the saddle to retain the apron height and a cross-slide rebuild. Further thought is needed. Maybe another hand-planing setup is called for, it worked well on the Rivett. </div>
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With the apron now fitted and gibbed-down I was faced with drilling a long hole right the way through the saddle, and a socket for the ballscrew that needed to be in an accurately located place. My milling machine is much too short of travel to make the hole. But I had a cunning plan. It isn't a coincidence that the socket for the ballscrew is No3 Morse Taper, I did that on purpose to allow me to do this:</div>
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The 1kW servo motor is more than capable of spinning a drill but I had to take something of a break from machining to use this idea, it was necessary to start wiring the system up, including fitting the PC and finding a place for the servo power supply. I finally settled on putting the servo PSU behind the headstock. </div>
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I started with the centre drill as above, then switched to an MT2 long-series drill in an extension adaptor to drill a though-hole:</div>
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I used a carver clamp in the saddle to give the tailstock something to push against to supply the feed, and after rather a long time with lots of chatter and squealing, I finally saw the drill emerge from the far side. </div>
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I then fitted a boring tool to the Z-drive to create a register exactly concentric to the drive as a reference. </div>
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The apron casting was then transferred to the mill, where I centred to the reference diameter using a <a href="http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/dial-co-axial-centering-alignment-indicator-metric.html">coaxial indicator </a> and bored the pocket for the ballnut with the boring head. </div>
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A bit of CNC milling made a pocket for the ballnut flange. </div>
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The casting was then reversed on the mill to allow me to come in from the other side. I didn't clock-up to exit hole of the drill as it was evident that the drill had wandered rather a long way. As it was cutting through radiuses and skimming along a few mm inside the top face of the casting cavity this was no real surprise. I kept the same height setting as the ballnut side, and set the lateral position relative to the rear reference face and then corrected the hole position with the boring head. </div>
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Even with the 100mm boring tool bought specially from China for the job it wasn't possible to get right to the middle, so I ended up using a lathe boring bar to "knife-and-fork" out the central 1.5" of the ballscrew path. I had decided to fully-enclose the screw, so I pushed in an aluminium tube with a couple of O-ring seals round it. This keeps the screw separated from the X-motor and its wiring and keeps the oil tank completely sealed. The tube also provides the required register for the spiral spring cover that will eventually be fitted. </div>
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If I was doing it all again I would definitely mount the ballnut on the left side of the apron. It makes assembling everything easier, it means that most cutting forces are pulling against the nut flange, it would put the nut in a convenient place to be oiled, and it would leave more space round the motor. But hindsight is a wonderful thing. </div>
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It was then finally time to thread the preloaded ballnut onto the ballscrew and put the apron back on the lathe. </div>
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Then push the screw home and tighten the retaining nut. Actually I haven't done that yet, It is going to need a deep socket and a special tool. </div>
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But even finger-tight there is enough drive on the MT3 taper to drive the carriage back and forth:</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/a-KE3-e4Z8A/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a-KE3-e4Z8A?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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It's nice to see it moving, but I would be happier if I knew what I was going to do about the bed wear. </div>
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Luckily if rectification means that the saddle drops, it just means a bit of a skim off the top of the apron casting to put things right. </div>
<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-80199177472050599852016-01-15T04:13:00.000-08:002016-01-15T08:16:57.685-08:00Holbrook Minor Drivetrain AutopsyThe <a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/holbrook5.html">previous instalment of this blog</a> ended with the drivetrain locking solid. This is not a trvial thing to diagnose as the lathe lives hard against the wall, and all access to the drivetrain is through the back.<br />
Luckily, as detailed in <a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/holbrook1.html">another previous installment</a> I anticipated the problem and I have made a frame to allow me to jack the lathe up on to castors to move it about.<br />
It actually took rather longer to make a space to move the lathe to than to push the (700kg) lathe across the garage, and I was left feeling pretty smug about my foresight.<br />
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The lathe manual seems proud of the fact that "The entire drivetrain is removable as a unit for easy servicing" which is indeed true. What they don't make such a big deal of is that the drivetrain on its baseplate weighs about 200kg and has about 1/2" of headroom. I eventually managed to extract it with the help of my <a href="http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-gorilla-bar-48/29330">Crowbar of Doom</a> (which is useful for all sorts of machinery moving jobs and is a superb bit of equipment, all the shapes and angles are perfect).<br />
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The Kopp Variator actually freed-up as soon as I took the fan cover off and wiggled the motor fan, but I decided to have a look inside anyway. It also relieved me of any worries that the problem was actually with the 2-speed gearbox. </div>
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Getting the Variator across the workshop onto the bench was a struggle by myself. The manual says that with the motor flange (but not the motor) it weighs 75kg. I was left with a rising sense of panic as I was unsure I would make it to the bench, had nowhere else to put it down, and was wearing carpet slippers[1]. </div>
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The Kopp manual says that you should dismantle from the output end. The Holbrook manual hints that they fitted the Variator back-to-front. I can confirm that in the Holbrook installation you want to take off the end cover nearest the speed adjusting worm shaft, in my case that was the motor end. </div>
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All fasteners on my Variator appeared to be metric. This incuded the tiny locking screws for the end-float adjusters.</div>
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The Variator is rather clever. The speed control rotates an iris plate into which spherical rollers on the axles of 6 balls fit:</div>
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The ends of the axles run in tracks in the end housings So as the iris plate rotates the axles of the balls tilt one way or the other. In the horizontal position the gear ratio is 1:1, with the axles tilted all the way one way it is 3:1, and the other way is 1:3. </div>
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The main problem with my Variator had become clear before I removed it from the lathe. There was very much less oil than there should be in there. No more than half, possibly even less. Certainly when I took it apart everything seemed completely dry. Luckily all the friction surfaces seemed pretty much OK and the problem that I had had with it seizing appeared to be due to overheated oil turning to sticky laquer. (Perhaps it was the wrong oil, <a href="http://www.allspeeds.co.uk/">Allspeeds Ltd</a> are very insistent that only one oil will do, <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Shell Morlina S2 BL10) </span></div>
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These are the balls as I found them. A tidy workplace and absolute cleanliness are paramount. </div>
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And here is one ball dismantled from the axle. I have not seen split-cage needle rollers before. Now I know that they exist I can think of all sorts of uses for them. </div>
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I cleaned-up the balls with white spirit and the very finest of Scotch-Brite pads to remove the brown staining.<br />
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The picture above is also a good one to explain some details of how the system works. </div>
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The outer ring matches the ball diameter on the inside and floats on the balls. (It's an RHP part, I think it is the outer race of a spherical roller bearing). The two drive cones are not keyed in any way to the input or output shafts, instead they have a set of ramps and a roller-thrust bearing arrangement. There are matching ramps on the input and output shafts. So: Input torque causes the rollers to roll up the ramps, which pushes the cones inwards. The balls slide out a little until restrained by the outer ring, at which point the pressure increases until the output shaft starts to move. So there is only ever the right amount of pressure to drive the system. </div>
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It is important to have the end-float correctly adjusted for this mechanism to work properly. I found it better to back-out the end-float adjusters before final assembly, then adjust them afterwards. You just need to loosen the tiny locking grub-screw then use a pin-spanner to adjust the adjusting plugs until they are both in the same axial position relative to the end cover, there is no backlash/play between the shafts and the unit turns freely by hand. </div>
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I have ordered some special Variator oil to see if it does in fact work better with oil in it, even though I have actually decided that I won't be using the variator in my CNC conversion. </div>
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The 2-speed gearbox</h3>
I will. however, be using the 2-speed gearbox. This is electrically controlled so easy to integrate with CNC. Inside there are two clutches to engage either straight-through 1:1 gearing or the 6:1 ratio. Slightly oddly the reduction gears are 12:144 then 84:84 which violates normal design practice of having a "hunting tooth" so that over time every gear tooth sees every other gear tooth.<br />
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In the external cover lives another clutch that serves as a spindle brake. Unlike the other clutches this one is not easily disconnected, as the terminal nut is inside the case, and the wire passes through a gland. </div>
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On my lathe the brake had been disconnected, and I don't know it it was working. It certainly wasn't after I had extracted the drivetrain, as I forgot about the wire. When I looked inside the case the wire had pulled out of the eyelet. This was a minor problem until I tried to fit anew eyelet, and the terminal screw snapped as I tightened the nut.</div>
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So, I took the brake off to see what I could see. </div>
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The plates are on the left, these alternately mesh with the central hub (keyed to the gearbox shaft) and the outer dogs of the electromagnet (on the right). The plates are all ferromagnetic, and want to stick to each other when current flows. </div>
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This wasn't going to work very well unless I could make current flow, and the broken off screw had no electrical continuity to the magnet. (when the screw broke off it came with solder and a bit of wire. </div>
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I had some reason for optimism, though, as poking a multimeter probe down the hole did find an electrical connection. </div>
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After toying with a number of elegant solutions I decided to just solder a wire into the hole and keep adding solder until it found something to make contact with. The magnet windings are all encapsulated and mounted in a heavy-duty steel case. </div>
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Luckily this appears to have been a complete success. I will be inserting a knot in the cable inside the case and a bullet connector outside to avoid making the same mistake again in the future. </div>
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I have the parts on order to make a motor bracket to fit in place of the Variator for direct drive via a VFD. Then I will experiment to see if I want the Variator back. </div>
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[1] I exaggerate, I was wearing hiking boots, but only by accident.<br />
<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-17468439834224627702016-01-12T15:04:00.001-08:002016-01-12T15:12:51.177-08:00Z-axis DriveThe last thing I published about the mechanical side of things was the patterns ready to go to the foundry. I got the actual castings back shortly before Christmas.<br />
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Not unexpectedly they came out a bit more than I had been quoted, but then I ended up making things rather thicker than during my initial enquiry. I said that the Z-box (on the top right) would be 6mm wall thickness and it ended up 20mm at the mounting face and 12mm elsewhere. It is actually quite a heavy lump (35 kg or so). You know you are lifting it. </div>
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Also in the picture are an apron casting, two bars to make into a gib strip (one is a spare), a toolpost mounting bracket and an X-drive cover (+ a spare, just in case). £350 all in from <a href="https://plus.google.com/117843202793672038457/posts">A J D Foundries.</a></div>
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The first task was to square the Z-box up, removing the pattern draught and making to finished size. The smallest dimension was just within the capability of my mill in vertical mode.</div>
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But it is lucky that I have a horizontal spindle for the other faces. </div>
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Even then, I needed some pretty hairy setups. It would have been bad to lose the vertical servo at this point. </div>
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With the casting all squared-up it just needed the housing making for the angular contact bearings. I was intending to do this on the undersized milling machine with my boring head, I even made a suitably long boring bar. But then as I was going to visit my parents for Christmas, and my dad has a Kearns S-type borer, I thought it made more sense to use that instead. </div>
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The Kearns is a machine pretty much dedicated to this sort of work, so made an unsurprisingly marvellous job of the task. However when I got the casting back to my workshop I found that my core box mould had too much paint in one area, and I did not have <i>quite</i> enough space around the drive sprocket, and had to do a bit of circular interpolation with a side-and-face cutter poked down the hole back on the Harrison. </div>
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Maybe not the clearest "action shot" ever, but it did the trick nicely. </div>
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Access was also rather difficult to the motor flange mounting holes. My get-out-of-gaol-free card here tends to be a little ER16 collet extension that I have. It will hold a drill nicely and is a lot slimmer than a drill chuck.<br />
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The motor has a moderately large shaft, and the sprocket (a Yamaha R1 camchain sprocket) isn't very large, so I couldn't use a commercial Trantorque bush. But I could make my own, using the sprocket itself as the outer taper. I slitted the inner taper by hand with a Dremel wheel on the basis that no matter how scruffy it turned out, it would still work fine. Imagine my surprise when it didn't turn out at all scruffy.</div>
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There then followed a minor hiatus while I waited for some etch-primer to arrive, so I made a start on the toolpost casting. This is slightly lower than the original compound slide, and allows me to use 16mm tools. </div>
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In an attempt to get perfectly flat mating surfaces I invert-turned the part using my milling machine and a boring head. It would have been a natural job for a face-plate on the lathe, except that I don't have a face plate and the lathe that is big enough is in bits. </div>
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A quick lick of paint and some new curved T-nuts for the cross slide, and the toolpost is mounted. I made it eccentric because I can't <i>quite</i> get enough travel to turn the full 10" capacity of the lathe with a ball-nut in the saddle slot. So I can swing the toolpost about to reach further back, or to the left and right, as required. I imagine I will find one position and stick with it, but it never hurts to have options. </div>
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As I might have mentioned, I am using a second-hand cam-chain to drive the ballscrew. This is much too long in it's wild state, so needed to be shortened. I was worried that this might be very difficult with an inverted-tooth chain. Many seem to use all sorts of fancy rocking link pins. Luckily some experiments with a Dremel showed that this wasn't the case here. I made a little "anvil" with a hole in it that fits in the milling machine slots and was able to split and re-join the chain using nothing more elaborate than a specially-made pin-punch. </div>
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And here is the chain installed. </div>
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I am using chain rather than belt as the lathe headstock has a forced-lubrication system, and pumps oil from the feeds gearbox. I wanted to keep this, and exploit it. The larger of the holes in the bearing housing in the picture above is an oil-feed to the angular-contact bearings. I put in a diverter tray to catch the oil from the head drain, and it feeds from there to the angular contact bearings...</div>
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...and via copper pipes to the drive chain and the oil sight-glass. The nylon pipe is the oil suction pipe from the pump in the headstock. </div>
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The ballscrew fits into a taper held in the angular contact bearings and is held in place with a nut. I needed a lathe with a working threading gearbox, and also one with a 0.5mm pitch option for another experiment that I will only mention again if it works. This precluded the use of the Holbrook itself (which has no metric threading capability with the changewheels I have) so I took the ballscrew into London to the <a href="https://union.ic.ac.uk/rcc/rcsmotor/">Motor Club </a>garage. I have some CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) inserts and these make turning ballscrews really quite easy:</div>
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With the taper and threads done, I could then fit the ballscrew and work out exactly how long it needed to be:</div>
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The bit of wood is a temporary expedient to keep foreign bodies and wildlife out of the headstock oil. </div>
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It would then have been a very simple job to shorten the screw and machine the journal for the end-steady bearing on the Holbrook. Or it would have been simple had the drivetrain not seized solid part way through the job. Clearly something is terribly amiss in the 2-speed box or the Variator and I imagine that will be the subject of the next update to this blog. </div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-47098581619840114942015-12-07T17:55:00.002-08:002019-01-08T03:12:01.579-08:00A start on the controller<br />
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CNC Electronics </h2>
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While waiting for the castings I got a welcome break from routing cutters and MDF and standing about watching machine tools, and assembled the controller PC and Mesa cards. </div>
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This is a DN2800 Mini-ITX motherboard that I already had (and might end up swapping). It has the advantage of being very thin, and running off of a singe 12V supply. It has the disadvantage of having wierd graphics that Linux struggles with. I eventually managed to hack together an Xorg.conf file to force it to use the native resolution of my monitor. </div>
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Also mounted on the same aluminium base-board are a Mesa 6i24 FPGA card (PCIe mounted on a riser over the motherbaord, then a 7i49 6-channel resolver board. At the top is a 7i84 smart-serial GPIO board and hiding under that is the 7i44 8 channel smart-serial breakout. Not shown are the two 8i20 servo drives and the 7i73 remote GPIO unit. </div>
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This photo shows how much smaller electronics is now than in 1968. You can fit an entire Microcomputer and CNC contoller in the space vacated by a single 1960s rectifier!</div>
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What there isn't quite space for in the electronics cabinet is the DC power supply and the servo drive boards. I decided to put them both in a case at the back of the spindle, where the feed motor currently fits. </div>
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The 8i20 motor drives need a DC supply of up to 400V. I am just rectifying 240V mains into a capacitor for this. The feed to this PSU probably ought to be through an isolation transformer, though I have been running the milling machine this way with no problems as yet. </div>
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In the case of the milling machine PSU I have a soft-start in the form of a power resistor that is in series with the incoming mains. After a fixed time (controlled by a 555 timer) a relay closes that bypasses this resistor. The reason for this is simply that putting a 6600uF capacitor across the mains without a surge limiter pops the RCD every time. </div>
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The Mill PSU also has a discharge resistor that is brought in by a second NC relay when power to the PSU goes off. Otherwise lethal voltages can hang around in the PSU indefinitely. </div>
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Unfortunately this relay / resistor combination means that the PSU can not be turned back on again until the caps are discharged, as doing so leads to the relay trying to break up to 300V DC, and they can't do that. I found this failure mode the exciting way by double-tapping the touchscreen. The crowbar relay welded shut leaving the resistor across the 300V supply permanently. As it was only a 100W resistor, and it was being asked to dissipate 900W, it wasn't long before it failed explosively:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BjAOeUZtOlg/Ukx-6U4cyEI/AAAAAAAACfg/demYC81vShQ/s1600/IMG_0666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BjAOeUZtOlg/Ukx-6U4cyEI/AAAAAAAACfg/demYC81vShQ/s400/IMG_0666.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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I added a delay before restart in HAL on the Mill to prevent this happening again. </div>
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However... In the case of the lathe I have a better idea. The Mesa 8i20 drives report bus voltage back to HAL. So I can let LinuxCNC HAL actively control the PSU. Hal can turn the PSU on, watch the bus voltage rise, and then bypass the surge resistor when the voltage tops out, then enable the drives and LinuxCNC. It can also time-out if this takes too long (say, if the crowbar relay is welded shut)</div>
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Also, it can refuse to allow the PSU to be re-energised until the bus voltage is less than a few volts, to protect against the relay welding issue. </div>
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I also decided to put the drives in the same box as the PSU. </div>
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The <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111274803717">first box I got from eBay </a>was very nice indeed. But turned out to be much too small. So I bought <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200970018309">a different box</a> which isn't quite as nice, but still nice enough. And is nearly big enough. </div>
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The 8i20 drives also report back card temperature. I will be keeping an eye on that, there isn't much air circulation space. However the 8i20 drives on the milling machine seem to run pretty cool, so I am fairly sanguine. </div>
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Despite appearances the lid does actually fit on. </div>
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The left-side RJ45 socket is for the 8i20 enable and fault lines, and the two relay-control signals. The other two are the smart-serial links for the 8i20 drives. The blue connector is a Neutrik PowerCON main-inlet connector, being used for the specified job. The other two connectors are Neutrik 4-pole speaker connectors being used for a very different job to their designated use, but they are rated 20A 400V, so work rather well for 3-phase motor connections. </div>
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Motors</h2>
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I have been acquiring motors whenever one was particularly cheap on eBay. </div>
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For the Z drive I am going to use a 1kW Reliance motor. This has a resolver for feedback (I like resolvers) and some really odd ball-retainer quick-release connectors. </div>
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I couldn't actually find the mating connectors, and my experience has been that if I did find them then I would not want to afford them. So I swapped the power connector for a metal Neutrik Speakon, the resolver for a 6-pin Lemo and the thermistor for a 2-pin Lemo. I found the Lemo connectors in a skip, 48 of them!</div>
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On eBay I found some really nice encoder/resolver drag-chain cable. Unfortunately in Austria, and a vendor who would not ship to the UK. But he would ship to German, so I arranged for a German friend to buy it. Some weeks later I arranged a trip to Munich to meet up with her and retrieve the cable. </div>
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It is a rather fancy cable, with 3 x individually screened pairs, 4 x small wires and 2 x larger wires. It is very nice, but is also rather too thick for the 1B Lemos from the skip, so I bought a cheap 2B pair from eBay, and did a swap. </div>
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I confess that wiring that plug was not the most fun that I have ever had. Partly because I was soldering into crimp terminals and the slightest hint of solder on the outside meant that the terminals did not fit in the housing. The plug works, but I know it is scruffy inside. I have enough terminals to re-wire, so I will. </div>
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I have a crimp-tool on order, and have found a terminal extractor I can borrow. </div>
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The other motor is a 600W one with a brake and a serial absolute encoder that I broke trying to figure out how it worked. This was unfortunate, but I my eBay habit had also left me with a homeless resolver. </div>
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So, I performed the rather unusual step of taking an encoder off of a motor and fitting a resolver in its place. </div>
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The motor with the brake was rather longer than necessary. So I decided to delete the brake and shorten the motor.</div>
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First, the motor apart:</div>
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Then I wrapped the rotor in tape to try to make it possible to clean the swarf off and re-machined it. The drawing underneath shows before-and-after sizes. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_B30s1gBfk0/VmYyKec6ymI/AAAAAAAAGBY/cjJcOZKY8tY/s1600/IMG_2123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_B30s1gBfk0/VmYyKec6ymI/AAAAAAAAGBY/cjJcOZKY8tY/s320/IMG_2123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then I machined down the brake housing. </div>
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And put it all back together again. With a couple more Lemos </div>
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Once again, the green wire won't fit the 1B size Lemo, so I have another 2B size pair on order. </div>
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I have had the big motor spinning under LinuxCNC control, but not the small one yet. It turns out that the larger motor is a 4-pole with a x2 resolver, and that the resolver is aligned to motor zero in the same way as Mesa define motor zero. This means that the resolver angle can connect directly to the drive angle in HAL, and the motor works perfectly. ie, for those who are used to this:</div>
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net angle hm2_5i24.0.resolver.00.angle => hm2_8i20.0003.angle (using the little-known use_serial_numbers Hostmot2 modparam). </div>
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The smaller motor will not be as simple, that has an unknown pole count and a resolver attached at random. But the <a href="http://linuxcnc.org/docs/2.7/html/man/man9/bldc.9.html">bldc HAL component</a> can deal with that. </div>
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<a href="https://bodgesoc.blogspot.com/2016/01/holbrook5.html">Continue to Part 5</a></div>
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bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-49911073487544380672015-12-07T16:22:00.002-08:002019-01-08T03:10:16.579-08:00Pattern Making<h2>
How to get really bored of pattern-making</h2>
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To make castings you need patterns. To make hollow castings you need patterns and cores, which means at least two patterns per part. </div>
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I started off with a CNC model of the motor-mount intended to replace the gearbox:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OOMGThgdCMo/VgJe_asv7bI/AAAAAAAAFio/TMX7rJRJ3XM/s1600/Z-feed%2BCasting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="351" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OOMGThgdCMo/VgJe_asv7bI/AAAAAAAAFio/TMX7rJRJ3XM/s400/Z-feed%2BCasting.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The right-hand side is an oil sump to hold the spindle lubricating oil. </div>
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The second image shows how I intend to arrange the bearings. The red part is a sprocket, because I feel like experimenting with silent-chain in an oil bath for this project, rather than the more-conventional toothed belt. It might be a disaster, but I can always swap to belts.</div>
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The basis for the pattern is a large block of MDF. Bizarrely it is cheaper to buy a full 8x4 sheet of MDF in B&Q and have them cut it into the size wanted than it is to buy a single pre-cut 4x2 sheet. </div>
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Exterior pattern</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GGXlVccliMQ/Vi0hjFSYqPI/AAAAAAAAFvo/H_gCWqU85zQ/s1600/IMG_2155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GGXlVccliMQ/Vi0hjFSYqPI/AAAAAAAAFvo/H_gCWqU85zQ/s400/IMG_2155.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Core box</div>
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Primed and sanded. Research on the Internet showed that the best primer for this sort of thing is a spirit-based shellac goop called <a href="http://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-b-i-n-shellac-based-primer-white-1ltr/29661?kpid=29661&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Painting%20and%20Decorating-_-Shopping%20-%20Painting%20and%20Decorating&gclid=COPhtoP5yskCFUEcGwodYgcMpA">Zinsser BIN</a>. One coat soaks in deep enough to kill the fuzziness of MDF after only one sanding. </div>
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I also found that <a href="http://www.diy.com/departments/colours-one-coat-interior-exterior-strawberry-gloss-paint-750ml/183959_BQ.prd">Colours One Coa</a>t is <i>not </i>a good choice for a pattern paint, as it remains tacky and soft for weeks and weeks, the last thing you want in a pattern.</div>
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Having made the pattern for the gearbox, I went on to make one for the apron and X-motor mount:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sZuS69W9flE/Vi0dSxYk1tI/AAAAAAAAFvU/EyrChMx4G7Y/s1600/Apron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sZuS69W9flE/Vi0dSxYk1tI/AAAAAAAAFvU/EyrChMx4G7Y/s400/Apron.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Which needs two separate cores. Which means 4 machined parts to make the core box.</div>
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For these core boxes I used some model-board that I found in a skip. High density PU foam. It's a lot nicer and cleaner to machine than MDF.</div>
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I also made patterns for the riser that replaces the compound slide. It is a bit thinner than the compound slide so that I can use 16mm tools in the Multifix toolpost. I think that the lathe was designed around 1/2" HSS tooling. The other part is the cover for the X-axis drive, which also has a 2-part core box. </div>
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After more sanding and painting and machining, I finally had all the pattern parts ready to send to the foundry. </div>
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They are not all done yet, but the bigger parts are. Not surprisingly (to me) the gearbox came in more expensive than the quote over the phone, but I had already analysed the model and realised that it was a 30kg casting. The real price is £150, which I still consider pretty reasonable. </div>
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<a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.com/2015/12/a-start-on-controller.html">Continue to Part 4</a></div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-64191516053840077952015-12-07T16:22:00.000-08:002019-01-08T03:07:39.715-08:00Holbrook: Backwards to go ForwardsIn the last thrilling instalment of the Holbrook saga I got the lathe spinning and usable as a lathe.<br />
So, naturally, the next thing to do was to disable it again, by unbolting important parts.<br />
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The reason for this was to determine what I would need to change to convert to CNC, as that is what the machine was bought with the intention of doing.<br />
Much of this post is likely to be of extremely limited interest to anyone who has no interest in dismantling a Holbrook Minor, but I thought that it was worth sharing what I discovered about how to do that just in case.<br />
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My intention was to mount a servo motor inside the feeds gearbox. The Holbrook already has a feed motor in this area, as it has variable speed feed drive, rather than being driven from the spindle and geartrain. The front of the gearbox comes off relatively easily when the gear selectors are removed, all of which have the usual spring-loaded ball detente to lose when pulling the knob forward.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2xiIDZQfJY/VmYFfLOxpjI/AAAAAAAAF_c/b9QbmXfo5RY/s1600/IMG_2106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2xiIDZQfJY/VmYFfLOxpjI/AAAAAAAAF_c/b9QbmXfo5RY/s400/IMG_2106.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Inside there is an awful lot of stuff, all very nicely made. One thing that isn't in there are 5 of the gears that there are spaces for, as <a href="http://www.lathes.co.uk/holbrook-minor/">www.lathes.co.uk</a> mentions. These correspond to the missing detentes in the larger detente circle in the picture above. Maybe there just no standard sizes there.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FlenYnQqyOI/VmYFh_u97jI/AAAAAAAAF_c/ALTonP6hmh0/s1600/IMG_2101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FlenYnQqyOI/VmYFh_u97jI/AAAAAAAAF_c/ALTonP6hmh0/s400/IMG_2101.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A typical lathe "Norton Box" has a tumbler that rolls an intermediate gear round a very long input gear (as can be seen in the picture above). Then the tumbler engages a sloped row of holes, the height of the holes being set by the different sizes of the gears being engaged with. </div>
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Not so the Holbrook. That has a sliding plate with a cam-slot in it. A spherically-pivoting peg engages in the slot. The slot is exactly the right shape to perfectly engage each gear. </div>
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Holbrook could provide custom gear-sets to order. That means that they were able to provide custom cam-slot-plates too. In the days before CNC that can not have been cheap...</div>
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The side panel of the feeds box stumped me for quite a while. You can loosen it simply by taking all the screws out. But that still leaves it shape-locked in place. </div>
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The first thing to do is to withdraw the leadscrew a few inches. If your leadscrew still has the end-thrust bearing (mine has gone missing, but luckily that doesn't matter to me) then that will have to be removed. The leadscrew drive is through a taper pin, this needs to be driven out. </div>
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NB: It is much easier to drive a taper pin out of the bigger end of the taper hole. Don't ask me how I learned that. </div>
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To pull the leadscrew out once the pin was removed I ran the carriage up to the chuck end, engaged the half-nut and then pushed the carriage back using the compound slide against the flat face of a chuck. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/----x9YWbVK0/VmYFmKHO9dI/AAAAAAAAF_c/dR6mfepDttI/s1600/IMG_2109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/----x9YWbVK0/VmYFmKHO9dI/AAAAAAAAF_c/dR6mfepDttI/s400/IMG_2109.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The observant will have noticed that this was a posed photo. </div>
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The power feed shaft puzzled me for a while, until I eventually noticed that, under the paint, there is a retaining cover for the overload clutch. With that removed the whole overload clutch assembly actually pushes itself out. </div>
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With the shafts removed, it is time to go round the back to look at removing the feeds box. </div>
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There are a number of brackets and suchlike for the back-gears, the removal of which I am too lazy to describe. </div>
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Round the back of the lathe lives the DC feed-drive motor. It is quite large, and pokes right the way through the bed:</div>
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On the pink-painted face round the motor can be seen a number of holes. 4 of these allow access to the socket head screws that hold the gearbox in place. And 2 allow access to the locating dowels. It helps to have some 1/4" drive Imperial hex key sockets to undo the bolts. It is possible to assemble a 3/8 socket on the extension bar after poking the bar through the hole, I proved this to be that case and hope not to have to prove it again. </div>
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With the bolts undone, the gearbox slides out moderately readily. It is all stuck together with red Hermetite, I freed it by loosening the bolts a few turns then punching against the bottom of the socket holes with a drift. </div>
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The picture above also shows the oil feed pipe to the spindle-mounted oil pump, and drain pipe which trickles into the gearbox. </div>
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I had noticed when my lathe started to run that there was no evidence of oil flow in this system.</div>
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I confess I am concerned about this, how long has the lathe run with no oil flow? </div>
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Above is the oil system mounted on the back of the spindle housing. The aluminium housing contains a sintered bronze filter. Mine was hard to access, I had to remove the housing from the machine and hold the body in a 3-jaw chuck to have any hope of getting the bottom off to remove the filter element. </div>
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For reference (as you can't see the label when it is mounted) the filter is Bijur Type B-7239 Ser A1. </div>
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I found that the problem was debris jammed in both of the spring-ball valves in the pump body (the vertical brass tube). The valves are easily-enough accessed by removing the top and bottom fittings, but for reasons of access I had to unmount the two T-pieces at the back. </div>
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Having dismantled the lathe to this state I was able to take a number of critical measurements to make progress on my 3D CAD model of the lathe. </div>
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My original plan had been to disembowel the original feed gearbox, but having seen the quality of the work that went into making it, and having looked at the internal layout, I decided that that wasn't a good plan. So I designed a new box from laser cut and welded plate. </div>
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The quote for the laser-cutting (in quite thick steel) came to £120. This was more than I expected, so I rang the <a href="https://plus.google.com/117843202793672038457/posts">foundry I sometimes use</a>. He quoted me £80, so<a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/Holbrook3.html"> I decided to make a casting....</a></div>
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And then I put the lathe all back together again, I will need it later. </div>
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<a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.com/2015/12/Holbrook3.html">Continue to Part 3</a></div>
bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-29357010877944764932015-10-11T16:00:00.001-07:002017-04-28T06:48:40.899-07:00La Belle France<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Last weekend was Contixinong, a weekend of sloth and decadence based </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">around the Normandy Beach B&B in Arromanches, France.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I decided that it would be a jolly wheeze to take the Ner-a-Car, the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">country roads in Normandy are exactly the sort of place that bimbling </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">about on a Ner-a-Car would be fun. The B&B is only 20 miles along the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">coast from the Caen ferry port, which sounded well within scope.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">However, the trip from home to the UK end of the ferry is mainly made </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">up of roads very much of the type that the Ner-a-Car isn't fun on, and i</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">t's also 120 miles or so. In principle perfectly plausible by </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Ner-a-Car, but with a ferry to catch and an estimated journey time of </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">at least 5 hours, not something that seemed tempting.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">So I hit on the plan of depositing the Ner-a-Car in Gosport by van </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">with mlh earlier in the week then coming down again on Thursday </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">evening by R1, doing a bike swap, and catching the ferry that way. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">This arrangement meant that (in theory) I could catch the ferry even </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">if I had to push the Device all the way. This was rather helped by the</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">fact that you are allowed to take motorcycles across on the Gosport </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">foot ferry, across the mouth of Portsmouth Harbour.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">So, the Ner-a-Car was deposited on tuesday night, arriving well after </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">dark. On Thursday the trip was faster, simpler and had less faffing, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">so I arrived earlier, allowing ample time and daylight to check </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the Ner-a-Car, let mlh have a test ride, and then head off to be very </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">early for the 2245 overnight ferry departure. T</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">he Ner-a-Car ran beautifully to the Gosport ferry, clocking a </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">whopping 32mph on the speedo of the following car.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The bike attracted some attention from some people on the ferry. The </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">more bizarre thing being mlh's observation about just how many people </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">didn't even seem to notice it at all.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">At the other side I waved adieu to mlh, started the bike and rode to </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the ferry, arriving rather early. Which at least gave me time to </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">decide that the £68 for a cabin for the night suddenly seemed more </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">acceptable than it had at ticket-buying time (only outside 4-berth </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">cabins were available). An outside cabin is a very dubious benefit in</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">a ferry that departs and arrives in darkness. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">At 0600 the following morning I was awoken by the ship alarm with the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">offfer of breakfast, but decided to skip it, with the plan of joining </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">in the breakfast at the B&B at my projected arrival time of 0900. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I got a bit lost on the way out of the ferry port, and found myself </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">heading south on the D514 dual carriageway. I have no idea why, I made </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">a point of only turning right. I had considered ways to mount my GPS </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">to the Ner-a-Car, but gave up and had decided to use my phone instead. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">More of that later.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Exiting to the right again onto the D35 found me heading towards </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Colleville-Montgomery and back on track.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">At this point the Ner-a-Car was trundling along really quite nicely. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">And then suddenly it wasn't. It lost all power and coasted to a halt. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Attempts to kick-start it back to life by the over-dressed rider </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">(dressed for October, but the weather was warm and very sunny) who had </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">skipped breakfast led to no signs of life from the bike, and a rather </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">faint feeling for the rider, so I pushed the bike round the corner, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">took some layers off and started to investigate.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Because I am an imbecile I hadn't thought to bring any spare spark </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">plugs, and as they are 18mm there seemed no real chance of finding </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">any. I tried cleaning the plug, I took the plug apart and put it back </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">together again (it's a screwed-together mica-insulated one) I put it </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">back in again, and repeated the procedure a few dozen times, for want </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">of any better ideas. Eventually I decided that perhaps the safety-gap </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">in the magneto ha closed up again (there wasn't one originally, so I </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">added one made out of a bit of bent wire) so I took the engine out for </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">a look. This might seem a little extreme at the side of the road in </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">foreign lands, but it is only one fuel union and 4 bolts, then it just </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">lifts out.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqa0G9co77BhBFdxhaDNcywkpzMkY65XHBAwRx-hN96Bi9z-lkR1F3HkKEfpYpc7jTf1U4JwC0fCeT3n2g0WaGC-CRLfkaClTAa7oTRtLEgQ55IkpRhiT1lLL0vTU-aCDG3n-IoI64ePDC/s1600/IMG_2136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqa0G9co77BhBFdxhaDNcywkpzMkY65XHBAwRx-hN96Bi9z-lkR1F3HkKEfpYpc7jTf1U4JwC0fCeT3n2g0WaGC-CRLfkaClTAa7oTRtLEgQ55IkpRhiT1lLL0vTU-aCDG3n-IoI64ePDC/s640/IMG_2136.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I didn't have the right tools (C-spanner and puller) or even the wrong </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">tools (hammer) to remove the flywheel, but I was able to unscrew the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">friction plate to see inside the magneto, and, of course, it looked </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">fine.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">So I put everything back together again, gave it a despairing prod on </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the starter, and it started.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Of course I wasn't dressed for biking at this point, and it stopped </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">while I was packing up tools and re-dressing, but it did push-start </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">again, and I set off once more. A couple of miles further down the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">road I came to an on-demand traffic light, where I thought I needed to </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">turn left, but decided to check my phone/map to be sure. I stopped the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">engine, decided that left was correct. And failed to re-start the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">engine. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">A partial repeat of the previous process, and several attempts at </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">push-starting left me feeling really rather hot and ill, so I parked </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">up the bike outside a bar/tabac full of curious onlookers and bought a </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">coffee.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">At which point the bike fell over. But no real damage was </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">done, and I was a little past caring.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">After the coffee the bike still wouldn't start, so I pushed it round </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the corner in the vague direction of Arromanches, Mainly because I </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">didn't like having an audience. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The first place I stopped turned out to be in the way of old ladies</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">with wheelie-bags, and the second turned out to be in full sunlight. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Eventually I crossed to road to a shady spot for a sulk.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I repeated the ritual extraction, dismantlement and replacement of the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">plug another half-dozen times or so, then eventually decided that </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">perhaps I might get a better spark with a smaller spark-gap. I tried </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">this, and it was no better.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">So I decided to push it down the road to a roundabout where I should </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">be able to determine my location, and call for help. Halfway I noted </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">that I was on a downhill gradient, and decided to try bump starting. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">And much against expectation it started! I jumped aboard, wobbled out </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">into the road, and set off.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The bike was running, but it wasn't running well. It would </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">occasionally lose power, but I found that I could perk it up again by </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">de-clutching and opening the extra-air all the way so that it revved </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">fast and lean. Presumably this was cleaning up a fouled plug, caused </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">by my now too-small spark gaps.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">In this mode I managed to complete my journey. Arriving not only too </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">late for breakfast, but also rather after lunchtime.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">When plotting the plan I had imagined trundling into the courtyard to </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the amazement of the assembled Ixies. But by that point they had all </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">gone to Bayeux, with the exception of Gordon, who was at least </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">slightly surprised, if not actually amazed.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">When the Bayeux contingent returned I was discussing how what I </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">probably needed was a new plug, but that an 18mm was an unlikely thing </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">to find on a saturday in a small seaside town. Then John realised that </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">he know an old-vehicle fan, no more than a couple of hours' drive </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">away. A phone call elicited the information that the guy was going </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">out, but had some plugs, and would leave them on his doorstep for us.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Some considerable time and distance later (Thanks for the lift, John) </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">we were back in Arromanches, where the new plugs were fitted to </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">precisely no improvement at all.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">At this point I seem to recall getting fed-up and wandering off to the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">beer fridge.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">It seemed to amuse Orb somewhat to taunt me with "Ian Nichols would </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">have thought of something by now" and I have to confess that that did </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">prompt me to start to think of alternative ideas. The Ner-a-Car has a </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">set of points, so in theory it should be possible to rig up a coil </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">ignition system. Adrian, the proprietor of the B&B has a collection of</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">old cars, and so had a suitable coil.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HOCBYNbnHZF4F1NQmGGGD5tWWBAk22fjGJWPszVWg2SaF85NptYUFvYMeOpSaDvWErkjGMrGPuSjpSGxhbWCcxfnrd3lDg3NM2NBbefpLU4kgY3WbRnIYBcQgORVPcCmslsBUX0nBJ1Y/s1600/IMG_2139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HOCBYNbnHZF4F1NQmGGGD5tWWBAk22fjGJWPszVWg2SaF85NptYUFvYMeOpSaDvWErkjGMrGPuSjpSGxhbWCcxfnrd3lDg3NM2NBbefpLU4kgY3WbRnIYBcQgORVPcCmslsBUX0nBJ1Y/s400/IMG_2139.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I didn't fancy running battery current through the magneto primary, so </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">decided that that needed to be disconnected prior to conversion. I </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">pulled the engine out again, and the careful application of the wrong </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">tool had the flywheel off pretty quickly.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I had a poke around with a multimeter, and things looked vaguely OK. 1 </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">ohm primary, 3k secondary, no obvious shorts. I then noticed that the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">wire that goes from the points to the condensor was badly frayed at </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the condensor, and down to only 2 strands. I decided to fix this as a </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">first job, though I was pretty sure that 2 strands would be enough, so </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">this wasn't likely to be the actual problem. However after </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">re-soldering the wire and putting the flywheel back together we were </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">greeted by quite a decent-looking spark even when just turning the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">flywheel round by hand.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">So, I put the engine back in, and it started, and I went for a test </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">run. There is a video somewhere of this test run. My excuse for </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">setting off up the hill on the wrong side of the road is that I had a </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">lot on my mind.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The test run wasn't a 100% success, the bike was behaving the way that </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">it had on the previous day. But after a return to base and an </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">enlargement of the spark gap, it ran very well indeed, and even wanted </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">second "gear" up the hill. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I put the bike away, considering "job done" and decided not to bother </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">with the coil conversion (we hadn't found a source of a suitable </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">battery anyway). And headed for the beer fridge.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The next day I topped up the fuel with some donated by Adrian, who </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">also found some 2-stroke oil. Checked that the bike still started and </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">headed for the beer fridge.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Monday was my departure day, and I was booked on the 1630 ferry. A </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">leisurely breakfast saw me prodding the starter at about 1030, and the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">bike starting second kick, and running beautifully. All the way to the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">courtyard gate, where it stopped, and wouldn't re-start. I cleaned the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">plug, and got a repeat of the same thing. The plug was looking _very_ </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">oily. Also, by this point the kick-start return spring had broken, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">which wasn't helpful.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I concluded that perhaps the fuel I had used was already 2-stroke mix, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">and that I might have over-oiled it. alternatively perhaps the oil was </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">injector-specific. But this was just a guess, and possibly a wrong </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">one. We measured the bike to see if it would fit in John's Volvo, or </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the B&B 4x4, and despite optimism on the parts of the vehicle owners, </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I could see that if we tried and failed then time would have been </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">wasted and decided that picking up a hire van to take the bike to Caen </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">was the more reliable solution. A brief moment of panic ensued when </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the Carrefour hire desk wouldn't take a UK license, but a second hire </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">place would, an John kindly drove the van back to Arromanches where we </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">loaded the bike and took it to Caen.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Some hours later, as I set off to push the bike to the ferry I decided </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">to try a bump-start and it ran for 30 seconds. The same was true on </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">arrival at Portsmouth, so I suppose that it still qualifies as a </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">motorcycle...</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Much pushing later and the bike was on mlh's bike trailer, locked up </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">in Gosport, and I rode home on the R1. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-69013248382933202832015-09-10T03:52:00.001-07:002017-07-08T04:12:29.981-07:00Union Clock<h2>
Converting a slave (pulse) clock to use the MSF Radio transmissions. </h2>
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Designed in 1909, opened in 1926 and expanded in 1930 the Beit Quadrangle is the home of the Student Union of Imperial College and is one of few buildings still remaining in the style of the original institution. </div>
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Inside the quadrangle is a clock, donated by Prof Brereton Baker shortly before his retirement in around 1930. (data from<a href="https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=x4u4ikoj1M8C&pg=PA76&lpg=PA76&dq=history+of+beit+quadrangle&source=bl&ots=_IeEs-_ZS_&sig=UoJGtEUWU7Es4LHYQwt136PSPvY&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEAQ6AEwBWoVChMImcq244HsxwIVwTsUCh3vXA8B#v=onepage&q=history%20of%20beit%20quadrangle&f=false" target="_blank"> this book</a>)</div>
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The clock was originally linked to the college-wide pulse-clock system, and then later to a Union-only pulse master when the college system was decommissioned. </div>
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At some point the Union master clock was removed, and the quad clock was reconfigured to be operated by a local time standard based on a mains synchro motor, a cam and a microswitch. This operated for several years, but stopped for unknown reasons. </div>
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For many years the clock was stopped, a point not noticed by many, but a source of marked irritation to some. One of those irritated by this was an old student Andy Wilson, a stalward of the '22 Club, the RCS Motor Club and other college organisations. He was determined to fix the clock during his retirement. Unfortunately he didn't get to see much of his retirement, dying suddenly and unexpectedly in 2014. </div>
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As a memorial to Andy it was decided that we (a loose agglomeration of folk from the groups that Andy was active in) would attempt to get the clock going again. A preliminary investigation in the cupboard under the stairs where the mechanism lives showed that the old motor + cam system operated when turned on, but the PSU showed an overload error and the clock mechanism failed to respond. </div>
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The clock mechanism showed signs of being seized, and of having overheated the coils:</div>
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So, the clock mechanism was removed and transported to my secret laboratory in Basildon, where I re-wound the coils, serviced the mechanism and constructed an Arduino-based timekeeping system that receives the <a href="http://www.npl.co.uk/science-technology/time-frequency/products-and-services/time/msf-radio-time-signal" target="_blank">"Rugby" signal</a> (actually broadcast from Althorn).</div>
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The basis of this is an Antenna which I <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331627157196" target="_blank">bought through eBay</a> though the same item is available from the <a href="http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=2" target="_blank">vendors online shop</a> too.</div>
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The Arduino uses this module and the (now archived) <a href="https://code.google.com/p/radioclock/source/browse/#svn%2Ftrunk" target="_blank">RadioClock library</a> on Google Code. I have not been able to determine (by a very cursory search) if this project has been exported to GitHub. </div>
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My own code is attached at the bottom of this blog entry.</div>
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The system was designed to run for a very long time, so to this end the Arduino power supply is a very simple linear design, using a single long-life capacitor. The pulse-power is simply rectified and not smoothed, to eliminate any capacitor in that circuit. </div>
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The Arduino has no way to check where the hands are pointed, but every time it moves the hands it writes the last-written time to the Arduino eeprom. At power up it recovers this data and moves the hands from the last-written to the new time (or waits if it is less than a 10 minute wait). </div>
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For wear-levelling the high-order bytes of the time_t data of the last time sent are used as an index into the rest of the eeprom to indicate where to look for the remaining bytes. I think that the method used gives an 87 year life from the 100,000 eeprom writes guaranteed by the spec. Some friends and I had a very long discussion about the absolute optimal way to do this, and one of them managed to find a way to eke 873 years out of the 100,000 writes per byte. Then I managed to mess it all up by using the wrong eeprom-write function... (I need to fix that and swap the Arduino for a different one that hasn't had its eeprom toasted). </div>
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A couple of buttons on the board advance the time by 30 seconds or 30 minutes. </div>
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Here is the finished controller board. </div>
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And here a dull video of the mechanism in action. </div>
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This is the code, if anyone has a reason to do the same sort of conversion. </div>
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I think that there are two bugs in this code, and I intend to fix and test them. I will try to remember to update this code when I do. You can get the code direct fro Github using the Pulseclock.ino link at the bottom of the listing </div>
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1) The ul in the union should be a time_t as it is written from a time_t and does maths with a time_t. I think that an occasional "spinning hands" problem is caused by a quirk of the "should I wait, or pulse" code that runs when the system starts. </div>
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2) The wear-levelling of the eeprom write is wrong, it needs to use the <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/EEPROMUpdate">EEPROM.update</a> function instead or it will actually wear out the EEPROM quickly.</div>
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<script src="https://gist.github.com/andypugh/b36e5dc66caa25efe893.js"></script>bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-62737281329410330672015-08-30T14:35:00.000-07:002019-01-08T03:06:21.969-08:00Holbrook Minor Single Phase Conversion<h2>
Re-homing a feral lathe</h2>
I have been getting increasingly dissatisfied with my cheap Chinese lathe. It is a cheap copy of the original Emco 7x12 lathe (itself a cheap lathe) stretched to 9 x 20 purely by lengthening the bed and increasing the centre height. It then has a milling head bolted to the back, to also make it a rather poor milling machine. I spent a fair amount of time and effort converting the machine to CNC, but eventually decided that the mill wasn't really good enough, and converted a <a href="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertical-mill-lathe-project-log/109301-cnc.html" target="_blank">Harrison Universal Milling machine to CNC</a> too. <br />
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Having decided that a better lathe was needed, I then had to decide which one. The Harrison M250 seemed like a good candidate as they are very compact for the capacity, and lots of them are being removed from schools where they have almost never been used. However I am not the only one for who that is a good set of features, and so the M250s (and the bigger M300 and M350) end up selling for quite a lot of money. I then accidentally found an advert for a Holbrook Minor, and after a bit of research on <a href="http://www.lathes.co.uk/holbrook-minor/">lathes.co.uk</a> I decided that they had quite a lot of nice features that lend them to CNC conversion. They don't have any gears in the head, but instead use a variable speed drive and a 2-speed electrically-controlled gearbox. The feed is by a DC motor, rather than geared to the spindle too. But, mainly, I like the look of them.<br />
As it happened, the lathe I found on Gumtree had been sold months ago, but then another one appeared.<br />
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Unfortunately the lathe had been stored outside for a while, and had managed to get a bit rusty. However lathes always look a lot dirtier and rustier in photos, so I decided to have a look. </div>
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The Holbrook Minor is diminutive only in name. It weighs 750kg, so when I went to look at it I took a van and a 2-tonne engine crane.</div>
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It will come as no surprise that I bought the lathe, otherwise the blog entry would be a bit pointless. </div>
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Loading it into the van was pretty easy, the place it was being stored had a telehandler. </div>
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The picture shows the drive-train rather nicely. The flange-mount 3hp 3-phase motor bolts to a <a href="http://www.allspeeds.co.uk/kopp-variators/">Kopp Variator. </a> there is then a short drive-shaft to a 2-speed gearbox with two electrically operated clutches and a brake. </div>
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When I got the lathe home it was a simple matter to lift it with the engine crane, then drive the van out from under it. </div>
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Actually, that's a lie. It was a horror of a manoeuvre, mainly because the 2-tonne engine crane (from KMS on eBay) appears to be made from cheese. I had the boom in the 1-tonne position, but with the van half-way out from under the lathe, this happened...</div>
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This left me with my newly purchased toy trying very hard to fall over and out of a van, and seemed quite keen to wreck the (hired) van in the process. Luckily a neighbour was at hand and he was able to quickly find a trolley jack, and another neighbour had left some bits of wood lying about. We were able to stabilise the situation with the jack, and then have a re-think about how to proceed. It turned out that the crane didn't bend any further in the 1.5 tonne position (and so it shouldn't, with a 750kg lathe) and that access for the crane was easier with the lathe half-way out of the van, so that this position could be used. </div>
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The lathe was then lowered on to the legs of the engine crane and an attempt to roll the lathe into the garage mainly served to prove that the 2-tonne engine crane doesn't have 750kg castors either, as they collapsed. </div>
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So, the lathe was finally rolled into the garage on several lengths of 1" pipe that I had plenty of. </div>
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On a whim I decided to try the tailstock of the 9x20 Chinese lathe on the bed of the 10x20 Holbrook. It seems to demonstrate quite nicely the difference in scale between the nominally similar lathes. </div>
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To access the Variator and gearbox for oil-changes and maintenance I needed some way to move the lathe away from the wall. The engine-crane had proved unsuitable for the job, so I made a frame the can bolt up around the lathe, hook into the hold-down bolt recesses, and then be used to jack the lathe up onto castors to roll it around the workshop. I am pleased to say that this actually works nicely. </div>
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The eagle-eyed will spot that the lathe is actually hanging on a strap in the photos, I forgot to take any after I had made the hooks, and these photos are of a test move to make sure that the (simple) screw jacking system works. </div>
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Single-Phase Conversion</h2>
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Once the lathe was home I almost immediately obtained a manual (including the circuit diagram) from <a href="https://store.lathes.co.uk/">lathes.co.uk</a>.</div>
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The Minor was quite a high-tech lathe for the day (the contactors had a production date of 1968), and this is reflected in the unusual complexity inside the control cabinet.</div>
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At the top-left of the main box is the transformer that produces 24V control power for the gearbox, 110V of the contractors, 300V for the DC feed motor and 50V for the low-voltage light from a 440V 3-phase input. Below that are the reversing contactors and the main on-off contactor Then an overload trip unit, and a rack of fuses. The large finned double-bank Selenium Rectifier converts the feed-motor armature current to DC, the one in the door is the field-coil bridge rectifier and the one at the bottom-right is the 24V bridge for the gearbox clutches. </div>
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The variable speed DC motor achieves variability by passing the 300V AC through a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autotransformer#Variable_autotransformers">Variac </a>on the control console. </div>
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At least I <i>think</i> it is a Variac, the wiring diagram shows a loopy version of a potentiometer, but the abbreviation "VR1" seems odd for a Variable Transformer. </div>
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To run the machine in my garage I needed to make all that work on 240V single phase. The first thing to do was to re-wire the spindle motor in delta configuration. Unusually I needed to make jumpers for this, as the motor has an unusual circular terminal layout, and the star-mode jumpers could not be adapted. </div>
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Star (Or Wye if you are American) 480V</div>
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Delta 240V</div>
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With the motor now converted to 240V operation I could use a Variable Speed Drive (VFD) to generate 3-phase. I found a suitable 2.2kW drive from a vendor on eBay for £83. </div>
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I tried to retain as much of the original control wiring scheme as possible. This may seem odd when the plan is to convert to CNC, but I wanted to test the lathe out first. </div>
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The original Forward/Reverse joystick contacts were wired to the VFD FWD/REV terminals and I added a 240V coil contactor as the no-volt release main contactor. The lathe came to me with a key-operated switch but no key, so I replaced that with a <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331638580838">22mm dual push-button</a> start-stop to control the contactor. </div>
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To control the 2-speed gearbox I installed a DIN-rail mounted 24V PSU (also from eBay) and again this was wired through the original control wiring. </div>
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The DC motor originally ran from a 300V output of the transformer for the field coils and the 240V between neutral and Phase 1 for the armature. I wired both these to 240V single-phase power through a couple of modern 35A silicon rectifier bridges. I didn't need 35A, but <a href="http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/kbpc3504-35a-bridge-rectifier-ar87u">that size from Maplin</a> have handy Faston terminals and a central mounting hole. </div>
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It proved to be rather easier to re-wire the suds pump for 240V as that was just a matter of moving wires:</div>
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Rather than use a small VFD for the suds pump I chose the much cheaper route of using a capacitor to synthesise a third phase. For simplicity this was mounted in the control cabinet. So the coolant switch now just switches live + neutral and then back in the cabinet again the third wire to the pump is connected to one side of a <a href="http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/3f-440v-motor-run-capacitor-rg63t" target="_blank">Motor Run Capacitor</a> and the 240V Live to the other side of the capacitor and the first terminal. </div>
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And here is how the control cabinet now looks:</div>
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There is quite a lot more room in there now. Time will tell if there is enough for a PC and servo drives to run the lathe in CNC mode. </div>
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At the top, right to left: The Lovato 2.2KW VFD, then (on DIN rail) a 24V PSU, 240V contactor, a pair of rectifier bridges and the suds-pump capacitor. </div>
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After one false-start where it turned out that the current through the power-on lamp was enough to keep the contactor engaged (I had misunderstood the wiring scheme slightly) the lathe now has all the features that it had originally, but runs from 240V single-phase. </div>
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Before anyone comments: Yes, I need more individual earth cables. </div>
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<a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.com/2015/12/holbrook2.html">Continue to Part Two</a></div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-1260180990896723712015-08-03T16:16:00.000-07:002015-08-03T16:26:55.093-07:00Rivett lathe slideway refurb<h2>
Rivett lathe slideway refurb</h2>
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As documented in a <a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Rivett%20Lathe" target="_blank">previous instalment of this blog</a> about 18 months ago I made an oak stand for the Rivett 608 that I bought in an eBay accident. What I don't mention in that entry is that when I got the lathe working I then realised that the slides were badly worn. So I took it apart to investigate.</div>
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The Rivett 608 has a rather strange design. The saddle is on the front of the bed, sliding in a dovetail. The reason for this is unclear, but Rivett were full of curious ideas like that. </div>
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It appeared that a previous owner had re-ground the external faces of the bed, but had not done anything to the internal dovetail. </div>
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Unlike every other dovetail in the world the Rivett saddle dovetail bears on all 5 faces. This was achieved by very careful scraping by someone who was so proud of his skills that he signed the back of the serial number plate. </div>
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So, the effect of the external grinding was that the outer vertical faces no longer contacted the saddle, transferring the forces to the internal bits between the feed shaft and leadscrew and the sloping dovetail angles. </div>
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I managed to re-scrape the saddle so that all three vertical faces were simultaneously in contact (if the Blue was applied thickly enough) but I got rather discouraged by my attempts to scrape the internal angles. It was looking like it would be very hard indeed to check those faces for angle and straightness and parallelism to the top surface of the lathe. </div>
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Another problem is that the Rivett dovetails (in another departure from accepted practice) are perfectly sharp-cornered, with no relief groove as is normally seen. Which makes scraping even more difficult. </div>
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So, the lathe stayed in bits for a few weeks, and then a Ner-a-Car project came along, and weeks became months. Then months became a bit over a year.</div>
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In the interim I bought<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108164504656404380542/Holbrook" target="_blank"> a new lathe, a Holbrook Minor</a> for conversion to CNC. I made the decision that I wouldn't allow myself to start on the Holbrook until the Rivett was back together and capable of making parts. </div>
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I decided that what I needed was a planer, l<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLZHV3v_FIo" target="_blank">ike this nice one on YouTube</a>. It is almost certain that that is how the dovetails would have been originally cut. </div>
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However, I couldn't find one locally, and then had the idea that perhaps I could simply plane it by hand. It works for wood, after all. But the problem with that would be holding the cutter in line with the lathe bed. Some sort of linear guide would be needed. I considered a number of possibilities then it finally struck me that I was over-complicating. If I want to be parallel to the top surface of the lathe bed then I should use the top surface of the lathe bed...</div>
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So a plan was born. I scavenged around the workshop for a bit of flat plate that I could put a hole in the middle of, but then my eyes fell (figuratively) on an old Myford motor plate. After a skim flat on the mill and the addition of some adjustable brass guides and a spare lathe compound slide, I had the device ready. </div>
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The first thing to do was to get the angle right. I did this by mounting a dial indicator in the toolholder, and winding the slide up and down in various places until the reading did not change. </div>
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Once the angle was set I replaced the DTI with a lathe tool, and set to work. </div>
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I even made an unexciting video of the process. A bit of light-scraping was needed afterwards to get the surface texture right, but the fit turned out to be rather astonishingly good. </div>
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The saddle adjusting gib had already been shimmed twice, and there was no way that it was going to be suitable for the new saddle position, so I set out to make a new one. The gib is 12" long, about 1" wide and 1/4" thick. Unfortunately the only cast iron bar I could readily find was 35mm diameter, so there was a lot of machining to do. </div>
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First I flattened off one side to about half way. </div>
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I had to progressively fit and remove clamps as the cutter moved across the work. </div>
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Then to hold the increasingly thin strip down I drilled and tapped a lot of M4 holes, and bolted it to a faced-off lump of scrap plate. </div>
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I was then able to mill the bar to the correct thickness and taper. (CNC makes this sort of thing really easy. G1 F50 X-350 Z8.05 sort of easy. At this point I was suddenly glad of the excess width that I had inadvertently bought, there would have been no room for screws with a more conservatively-sized bit of material. </div>
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With the thickness approximately right I was then able to cut down to width with a dovetail cutter to get the required angle. (my mill has a rotating but not "nodding" head. This process would be easy on a Bridgeport or similarly adjustable machine)</div>
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You might have noticed that the gib appears to be rather longer than 12". In fact it is 350mm, and would have been longer still but for the fact that 350mm is the limit of travel of my milling machine. I always get nervous around tapers, and like to make them long, try for size then cut off the excess. </div>
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In this case the gib slid through about 1" further than I thought it should from the measurements, so I was glad of the extra length. </div>
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The adjusting screw slots were next on the list, and those turned out to be a bit of a challenge because they are in the end of a long thin (and fragile) bit of iron. </div>
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I could have switched the mill to the horizontal head, but that is a fair bit of effort, and I hit on a way of doing it with the lathe which actually worked rather well. </div>
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And here is the finished gib installed on the saddle. It is on the limit of adjustment, as it is only ever going to get looser. (No, you can't really see it. )</div>
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The next problem is that the saddle sits low in the bed. It always would have done, regardless of the method used to sort out the dovetail wear. I think that I can get enough adjustment in the saddle angle screws for that to fit, but the offset is enough to make the leadscrew bind in its very tight slot, and to make the power-feed bevel housing foul the bottom of the lower slot. So a little more work to be done there, but I think I have workable solutions. </div>
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bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-54526892843028547732015-06-17T16:17:00.001-07:002015-06-17T16:17:43.999-07:002004 YZF-R1 Exhaust Flange ReplacementMy main transport, surprisingly enough, is not a Ner-a-Car but a 2004 model Yamaha R1. I have had it from new, and have done 100,000 miles on it. If it broke terminally tomorrow I think I would buy another exactly the same.<br />
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The bike is still using the original exhaust. It is made of titanium and stainless steel and appears likely to last literally forever. Unfortunately it isn't <i>all</i> titanium. For some unfathomable reason they chose to make the retaining flanges out of mild steel, and after a while they look like this:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4H4j5cnfs30/VWM4vzBfGgI/AAAAAAAAFMU/vdtGgg1Wm8I/s1600/IMG_1841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4H4j5cnfs30/VWM4vzBfGgI/AAAAAAAAFMU/vdtGgg1Wm8I/s400/IMG_1841.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Not pretty, that's for sure. </div>
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The clamp-plates are put on the header pipes before the pipes are welded into the collector flange. Once on, they don't come off in one piece. More annoyingly they don't go on in one piece either. </div>
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I had plenty of time to think about this, and in the end I had a batch of these made by a l<a href="http://www.laser24.co.uk/" target="_blank">ocal laser-cutting place. </a> </div>
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If you want to make some, then <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxjJW1-T6n7CUF9GNF9HeGs2WUk&authuser=0" target="_blank">this is the CAD file I sent them</a>: </div>
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At this point they won't work for the job, they need a bit of machining. I was going to use the mill, but I am having problems with the PCI card. (probably the motherboard slot). So I found a way to do it on the lathe:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UpPKcjErLrQ/VYHsAmGenAI/AAAAAAAAFQA/-Z2pnzFvEE4/s1600/IMG_1876.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UpPKcjErLrQ/VYHsAmGenAI/AAAAAAAAFQA/-Z2pnzFvEE4/s400/IMG_1876.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And then with the hole parts half-thickness the result is a flange that can be assembled round the pipe in-situ. It's like the Ying-Yang of combustion gas evacuation. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-djYdblH1PIY/VYHsB2FsLqI/AAAAAAAAFQI/FmYsP4BdK7E/s1600/IMG_1877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-djYdblH1PIY/VYHsB2FsLqI/AAAAAAAAFQI/FmYsP4BdK7E/s400/IMG_1877.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once I had made one I checked that the idea was sound, and was rather pleased with the result:</div>
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So I went on to make the others, then cut off the old flanges with a Dremel cutting wheel. </div>
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All in all, it looks (so far) to be a surprisingly great success. </div>
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<br />bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-68622511725536762962015-02-08T08:28:00.000-08:002015-12-08T14:53:24.881-08:00The Eyes Have It. The Ner-a-Car was quite an early bike to have self-generated electric lighting, which is very convenient and taken for granted now. However it doesn't have a battery, so the lights go out when the engine stops. The road regulations of the time insisted that any vehicle had to be able to display lights all the time, so for that reason the bike was fitted with a "dual fuel" rear light and one electric and one acetylene front light.<br />
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Perhaps surprisingly carbide lighting is still popular with some cavers, and during my peak caving years in the 90s it was very much the preferred method. It gives a lot of pleasant bright light, and is nicer to cave with than the pencil-beam of an electric head torch. It is only in the last 10 years or so that LED lights have finally supplanted this Victorian technology.<br />
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You will have seen in previous instalments that I had found a correct combination acetylene / electric tail light on eBay. I had also made a light switch, and the rear light works nicely. The missing part was the front lights, and eBay failed to turn up any of those. Which wasn't a large surprise.<br />
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Luckily some previous owners had the same problem, and a set of patterns for metal-spinning new shells was available. Metal spinning is an interesting and entertaining process, and is one of those techniques that once you have it "under your belt" very much increases the range of things you can make. YouTube contains many videos of the process, and it is perhaps surprising that such a hand-craft way of making things is commercially viable, but the tooling is so much cheaper than press tooling that it apparently still is. Of the YouTube videos one of my favourites is <a href="http://youtu.be/IkFdJwW_0GI">this one</a>.<br />
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The patterns I received from another Ner-a-Car owner came with a number of fixtures and rings, which at first I couldn't figure out. One thing that was quite obvious was that the removable knob at the back of the pattern was for the lampholder of the electric variant.</div>
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I bought 12 150mm aluminium squares from eBay. I would have preferred circles, and I would also have preferred material in the dead-soft annealed condition, but I couldn't find any. I don't have a circle-cutter, so before every spinning attempt I had to anneal the sheet and cut it into a circle with snips. To judge the annealing temperature I scribbled all over the sheet with a green marker pen, then heated from the other side with a gas torch until the ink lost its colour. This seemed to work and avoided the danger of melting the metal. I nearly always remembered to remove the plastic protection film before applying the blowtorch too.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XR4nW_4iA5M/VKxtOrzeLoI/AAAAAAAAE6g/w65jdL5oSXs/s1600/IMG_1706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XR4nW_4iA5M/VKxtOrzeLoI/AAAAAAAAE6g/w65jdL5oSXs/s1600/IMG_1706.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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At the time I started this part of the job I was hoping to be able to ride to a VMCC meeting, but for that I needed lighting, so the electric variant was prioritised, and I started with one of those. </div>
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The first two attempts were dismal failures, the aluminium sheet fatigued and tore at the edge at the end of the lampholder spigot. I realised that this was because the forces at this point were rather high, and one of the extra bits of tooling in the box suddenly made sense:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vSNes-wetks/VNd9jb0yKnI/AAAAAAAAFCI/Ljz2Qx2htS8/s1600/IMG_1699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vSNes-wetks/VNd9jb0yKnI/AAAAAAAAFCI/Ljz2Qx2htS8/s1600/IMG_1699.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The nylon ring provides a surface to "set on" the material to reduce force at the spigot end.</div>
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Then about at this point, with the material supported by the main body of the pattern you can remove the ring and complete the shape. </div>
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These lamps are a bit of an odd profile, near the bezel there is a thin vertical lip, then the bezel seat is at a reduced diameter. The photo below shows the first angle of the lip formed against a second removable collar</div>
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And then the collar is removed to allow further spinning to take the bezel seat to the required diameter. </div>
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In the picture above you can see that the second operation on the bezel seat has deformed the lip. I really struggled with this and I have no idea how a pro would do this part of the process. I actually got quite frustrated and made a lot of scrap trying to get that part right without tearing the metal. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aVQkKhGkMXg/VK8bnDWX1PI/AAAAAAAAE80/4sXhHfg4sv8/s1600/IMG_1719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aVQkKhGkMXg/VK8bnDWX1PI/AAAAAAAAE80/4sXhHfg4sv8/s1600/IMG_1719.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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In the end I settled on using a big bit of tube to support the back-side of the lip. I would love to watch an expert doing it to see the "right" way. </div>
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The next part to make was the bezel. I have looked at making lamp bezels before, but could not figure out how it is done. Once I saw the tooling provided it suddenly seemed obvious. The bezel form is double sided. You start off with a flat sheet in the position that the headlight glass would sit, then form the first curve against a former with the outside surface of the bezel against the former. Then you use the other side of the former (or a different one) to form the return curve. Finally you cut out the middle and replace it with something less opaque. </div>
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The original lamps had the glass retained by a spring clip held in a groove on the inner diameter of the bezel. The patterns did not attempt to reproduce this, as the part would be impossible to remove from the former. I decided to see if I could modify the pattern to also include this groove. </div>
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The trick is to make the pattern segmented, in the same way as top-hat moulds work. The rim former is made in 4 parts that screw to the main pattern, and can then be unscrewed to let the part come off of the former, and then the segments can be removed one at a time. </div>
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The photo below shows stage 1, with the clip-groove formed at a larger diameter than the rest of the bezel. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w9EFdEgdv8s/VKxtRuk30gI/AAAAAAAAE64/8DpovVeQH-4/s1600/IMG_1709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w9EFdEgdv8s/VKxtRuk30gI/AAAAAAAAE64/8DpovVeQH-4/s1600/IMG_1709.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then the middle has to be cut out with the trimming tool. Otherwise the screw heads can not be accessed. </div>
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The screws are removed and the pattern and part reversed:</div>
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A clearer view with the push block temporarily removed. </div>
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And a finished bezel on a lamp shell.</div>
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The mounting stalks were made on the lathe by turning the stem with a large circular flange. I then CNC-milled the flange to the required trefoil shape and formed them to the required curvature to fit the lamps with a hammer. </div>
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One good thing about all the failed lamps was that I had plenty of pre-formed material suitable for making the internal stiffener out of. </div>
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And then the stems could be rivetted on. </div>
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I could not easily find suitable glass circles. By all accounts tax-disc holders for motorcycles have the right size glass, but all the ones I could find were plastic. And I couldn't find many of those now that tax discs have been abolished. After finding that the local glass cutting place was almost entirely unhelpful I eventually had a small brainwave and approached a <a href="http://www.glassfromthepast.co.uk/index.html">local stained-glass workshop</a> where the nice proprietress made me a set of four discs for a more than reasonable £15. </div>
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I persuaded my CNC mill to convert a 2" bar into a carved-from-solid mounting bracket and a rather large pile of not-mounting-bracket using the HSM CAM add-in for Autodesk Inventor. Luckily there is a 30 day trial, as at $10,000 to buy it, I won't be. However it is a first-class CAM system and knocks others I have tried into a cocked hat. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pzlBlsNUuZQ/VNd9g6FMYxI/AAAAAAAAFB4/sIHUWB590Yo/s1600/IMG_1756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pzlBlsNUuZQ/VNd9g6FMYxI/AAAAAAAAFB4/sIHUWB590Yo/s1600/IMG_1756.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The other part of the clamp was machined in a broadly similar way, then after putting in the clamp-split:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OaV7YpMvRrc/VNeNdTdujsI/AAAAAAAAFDo/MKG-cOzViRc/s1600/IMG_1758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OaV7YpMvRrc/VNeNdTdujsI/AAAAAAAAFDo/MKG-cOzViRc/s1600/IMG_1758.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And rivetting in a hinge-pin the light were complete and ready to mount. (I admit to glossing over making the electric and acetylene fittings, and the clips and knobs that hold the bezels on)</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BXXOwxjpn4I/VNd9eId_KMI/AAAAAAAAFBo/SltFhuicz8E/s1600/IMG_1764.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BXXOwxjpn4I/VNd9eId_KMI/AAAAAAAAFBo/SltFhuicz8E/s1600/IMG_1764.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A bit of paint on the clamps, and the bike has its "eyes" back. And very googly eyes they are too. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nw8F1vx_yKI/VNd9bkDek5I/AAAAAAAAFBY/U_9YuTQNvxM/s1600/IMG_1767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nw8F1vx_yKI/VNd9bkDek5I/AAAAAAAAFBY/U_9YuTQNvxM/s1600/IMG_1767.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With the cable connected up, the light even works.<br />
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And this is the acetylene lamp running from my old caving generator. I suspect that it might be a more effective device than the electric one, in practice. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XChj1F0_SEQ/VNf1llwH1YI/AAAAAAAAFD4/bHywCGsofrM/s1600/IMG_1770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XChj1F0_SEQ/VNf1llwH1YI/AAAAAAAAFD4/bHywCGsofrM/s1600/IMG_1770.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-65880175778687715402014-11-20T14:34:00.003-08:002017-05-13T03:09:40.832-07:00The last bits and piecesThe Light Switch<br />
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The Ner-a-Car was somewhat unusual for the time in having self-generated electric lights. It seems they were not sure of the concept, because it also has Acetylene lights. </div>
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The light switch is an extremely solid and over-built device, as can be seen in the <a href="http://www.geutskens.eu/neracar/lighting_switch.htm" target="_blank">detailed pictures </a>on Ben's website.</div>
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Luckily an Italian owner had already had some switch body castings made, so we struck a deal where I completed all of the switches and sent him one, keeping the others. </div>
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After drilling the screw holes the next job was to make the square hole for the switch shaft, and for that I had to make a square broach. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-usiLA4j9Iu8/VCNTP5lBc1I/AAAAAAAAElE/zQUKG4D8rEg/s1600/IMG_1566.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-usiLA4j9Iu8/VCNTP5lBc1I/AAAAAAAAElE/zQUKG4D8rEg/s1600/IMG_1566.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This was a bit of a pain as there wasn't really enough travel for the broach to work properly. But after repeated operations it did the trick. </div>
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I then machined the little brass and bakelite lozenges:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W_F1sKhaeFs/VCNTOatoYoI/AAAAAAAAEk8/WZqoaKEk52k/s1600/IMG_1565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W_F1sKhaeFs/VCNTOatoYoI/AAAAAAAAEk8/WZqoaKEk52k/s1600/IMG_1565.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And did a trial assembly. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NquqAWS8SVI/VCNTRLXE-6I/AAAAAAAAElM/fWfygIz3Ma8/s1600/IMG_1567.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NquqAWS8SVI/VCNTRLXE-6I/AAAAAAAAElM/fWfygIz3Ma8/s1600/IMG_1567.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The bakelite sheet I got from eBay was a metric thickness, so I skimmed down the top-covers to the correct thickness on my lathe, holding them to a lump of brass with double-sided tape. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MPJ1xkp51r0/VCyQDvZahjI/AAAAAAAAEnw/-OolqzSfYEY/s1600/IMG_1591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MPJ1xkp51r0/VCyQDvZahjI/AAAAAAAAEnw/-OolqzSfYEY/s1600/IMG_1591.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The contacts were originally copper. I made a little bending jig, and made some copper ones:</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jq-7pU89C2w/VCyPq-Q4XQI/AAAAAAAAEnI/PQYFMlumvNQ/s1600/IMG_1597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jq-7pU89C2w/VCyPq-Q4XQI/AAAAAAAAEnI/PQYFMlumvNQ/s1600/IMG_1597.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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But they didn't work. The copper was too soft (originally they would have been "full hard" or even "spring temper" copper which I was unable to find a source of. In the end I switched to phosphor-bronze sheet, which works but is surprisingly very much less conductive. </div>
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To make sure that the contacts were the correct shape I made a special top cover with a window. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qqKU4N0fSWU/VCiRzd57BPI/AAAAAAAAEmI/AP_R4KiVxd8/s1600/IMG_1595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qqKU4N0fSWU/VCiRzd57BPI/AAAAAAAAEmI/AP_R4KiVxd8/s1600/IMG_1595.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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For all the clunky chunkiness of the switch it actually turns off and on a bit sketchily. In the on position (shown) there isn't all that much contact pressure, and in the off position the contacts are only just clear of the brass block on their straight section. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6prwSd2jn58/VCyPpG-yRzI/AAAAAAAAEqc/mpfjXyPNnJw/s1600/IMG_1604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6prwSd2jn58/VCyPpG-yRzI/AAAAAAAAEqc/mpfjXyPNnJw/s1600/IMG_1604.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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At the end I had probably the largest collection of Ner-a-Car light switches seen together for many decades. </div>
This is the switch in-situ. It needs very strong fingers to operate it, and it is ideally situated to hook one's trouser legs immediately prior to attempting to put one's foot down.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qAB9zLBDoME/VCyPsC0A2WI/AAAAAAAAEnQ/9I_yqlmP7xY/s1600/IMG_1601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qAB9zLBDoME/VCyPsC0A2WI/AAAAAAAAEnQ/9I_yqlmP7xY/s1600/IMG_1601.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I wired the switch up with some rather nice period <a href="http://www.fiennes.co.uk/Parts/Catalogue/L/LA/LA130" target="_blank">"Ross Courtney" connectors</a> and some <a href="http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/73/category/12" target="_blank">semi-authentic wire</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NPDFEPa1hys/VE6ntRxeE6I/AAAAAAAAEvw/4vexkelOG5I/s1600/IMG_1608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NPDFEPa1hys/VE6ntRxeE6I/AAAAAAAAEvw/4vexkelOG5I/s1600/IMG_1608.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Engine Cover</h2>
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The original engine cover had been "repaired" in a rather ugly way with a row of screws. </div>
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It looked OK in an "honest repair" kind of way, but didn't actually fit. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yTnLHUQw4h0/VA3k9DlOzRI/AAAAAAAAEfY/jWfv0O-WxBg/s1600/IMG_1523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yTnLHUQw4h0/VA3k9DlOzRI/AAAAAAAAEfY/jWfv0O-WxBg/s1600/IMG_1523.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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So I rolled up a new bit using the same rollers as for the fuel tank (in the same way) and welded it in. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pmBtjw_d-hY/VBDbYGKOY3I/AAAAAAAAEgM/suds9Ltqcno/s1600/IMG_1528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pmBtjw_d-hY/VBDbYGKOY3I/AAAAAAAAEgM/suds9Ltqcno/s1600/IMG_1528.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The cover was actually extremely thin, when stripped of paint it was semi-transparent. However with a bit of welding and filler it seems to look OK. </div>
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<h2>
Under-Tray</h2>
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The engine on the Ner-a-Car is almost completely enclosed, and as well as the top cover there is an undertray. </div>
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I had one, but it was really in very poor condition. The photo doesn't really show how riddled with holes it is. As can be seen, I made a replica (but kept the real one)</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AwEKtc8grMs/VBYD3YgsOZI/AAAAAAAAEig/sU8nv9MTmJY/s1600/IMG_1539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AwEKtc8grMs/VBYD3YgsOZI/AAAAAAAAEig/sU8nv9MTmJY/s1600/IMG_1539.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The under-tray makes assembling the machine about 10x harder. Some of the jobs are now just horrible. </div>
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How to register a vehicle with no VIN or chassis number</h2>
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I tried to do some web research about how to register a vehicle like mine, with no chassis number while making sure to get an age-related plate, tax exemption and MOT exemption. </div>
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Firstly it is very much easier if there is a chassis number. The DVLA do not appear to have an exhaustive list of chassis numbers. This is a hint. </div>
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However, I didn't have a chassis number so the process is this:</div>
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1) Get a dating certificate from an owners' club. I got one from the VMCC and it took a little over a month. </div>
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2) Send off the V55/5 form. This is a paper form that you have to apply for on the DVLA web-site and takes 10 days to arrive. You can save time by sending for this in advance. </div>
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3) Return the V55/5. You will need lots of supporting info, including an insurance certificate. You might need to shop around. Footman-James were adamant that a bike could not be insured without a frame number or reg number, Adrian Flux were happy to insure on the engine number. If you don't have a chassis number the form will come back to you with a new VIN to have stamped on the Chassis by a garage, a demand for the £55 new-registration fee (new VIN = new registration) and a demand for a NOVA declaration reference. </div>
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4) Send off for the NOVA paper form. This is an HMRC form for imports. You can do it all online, except if your vehicle isn't actually an import. In which case nothing fits and you need the paper form and a covering letter. This also takes 10 days to arrive, so send off for it in advance. You can read the HMRC guidelines and end up convinced you don't need a NOVA for this situation, and you would be right, but you do need a reference number and letter to prove it. </div>
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5) Get the chassis stamped then send off the NOVA letter, V55/5, dating certificate, photos, £55 cheque, letter confirming chassis has been stamped, proof of address, driving license photocopy and insurance certificate then wait 3 more weeks. </div>
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6) Shiny new V62 arrives with a registration number to use.</div>
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The Ner-a-Car chassis number wasn't stamped, which is how it was possible for it to get lost in the first place. It was an etched and stamped brass plate. </div>
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I made one using <a href="http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/press-and-peel-pcb-transfersystem-ab15r" target="_blank">Press-and-Peel PCB</a> making sheet from Maplin. I copied the original artwork in AutoCAD, then printed it from Inkscape, then etched it with Ferric Chloride. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bllZaC7CQQM/VCyPn2G8XeI/AAAAAAAAEm4/Wob8UfMX7d8/s1600/IMG_1606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bllZaC7CQQM/VCyPn2G8XeI/AAAAAAAAEm4/Wob8UfMX7d8/s1600/IMG_1606.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once I had the VIN I engraved it on the plate. It barely fits. The original number would have had at most 3 digits. </div>
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I managed to find the UK number-plate font online, and decided to use it. The number plates would originally have been signwritten in whatever style the signwriter liked, of course. I did find a signwriter who said he could do it, but then he stopped answering the phone and emails, so I gave up on him. </div>
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I printed out the number on label paper, then cut out the letters with a craft-knife. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eBrqaCEh-yA/VGKPKU2YwGI/AAAAAAAAEyM/JrhPYR-eMV8/s1600/IMG_1657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eBrqaCEh-yA/VGKPKU2YwGI/AAAAAAAAEyM/JrhPYR-eMV8/s1600/IMG_1657.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A quick spray with white paint, and I had some servicable number plates and a 100% road-legal bike. </div>
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To celebrate I took it to a local WW1 aerodrome, where a photographer friend took <a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2017/05/stowe-maries-photos.html" target="_blank">some really nice photos. </a></div>
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On the way there the seat (leaf) spring sagged, so I had to heat-treat it. It was as-recieved O1 tooling plate, so this wasn't a huge surprise. I did using the <a href="http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/heat-treatment-furnace.html" target="_blank">little tube-furnace </a>I had made to heat treat some other parts, though I did need to temporarily extend it with a second tube and element. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yJu-nRR2MKk/VGvIoCvn3YI/AAAAAAAAE0U/htNSc6nTdsg/s1600/IMG_1674.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yJu-nRR2MKk/VGvIoCvn3YI/AAAAAAAAE0U/htNSc6nTdsg/s1600/IMG_1674.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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And here, I think, ends this blog. Unless I need to do something else, like make a piston. </div>
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bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7582974294685594749.post-86902299973839988082014-11-20T13:15:00.002-08:002016-04-29T14:06:50.654-07:00Ner-a-Car Parts AvailableIn the process of my restoration I occasionally made duplicates of parts as once tooled up for a job it is often not a great deal more effort.<br />
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Because of this I have the following parts spare and available to other owners. Note that the numbers are just to cover my tooling expenses and this is not intended to be a profit-making exercise.<br />
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A set of lamps and brackets (804, 805, 807, 808)<br />
<strike>The electric is ready to go, the acetylene needs a burner at the moment. I could make a burner to suit a jet (readily available from eBay) if required.</strike><br />
<strike>These are my "best rejects". The bead on the rim isn't quite right and there are small cracks (invisible with the rims fitted) on the body lip. The brass brackets need a bit of filing and fettling, the milling cutter marks are still evident.</strike><br />
<strike>These were quite a lot of work and the brass isn't cheap. I would be hoping for £120 the pair.</strike><br />
Now sold<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ym91qN-b9JY/VRWpWxrgS6I/AAAAAAAAFIs/tDZUdcRtN3A/s1600/IMG_1798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ym91qN-b9JY/VRWpWxrgS6I/AAAAAAAAFIs/tDZUdcRtN3A/s1600/IMG_1798.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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542 Brake Pedal Pad<br />
Machined from mild steel, £15<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ICCYk9F6PyA/VG5X6UV8E3I/AAAAAAAAE1A/ddxFlVTh0EY/s1600/IMG_1676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ICCYk9F6PyA/VG5X6UV8E3I/AAAAAAAAE1A/ddxFlVTh0EY/s1600/IMG_1676.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Starter gear and magneto nut pair. 17 teeth (US models?)</div>
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Heat-treated EN8 steel. <strike>£22 </strike> Out of stock. Contact me for details if you need one</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bOCpC4iZ01U/VG5X7eD2WOI/AAAAAAAAE1I/Bl72DwHa9MI/s1600/IMG_1665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bOCpC4iZ01U/VG5X7eD2WOI/AAAAAAAAE1I/Bl72DwHa9MI/s1600/IMG_1665.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Starter gear and magneto nut pair. 13 teeth (UK Model A definitely)</div>
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Heat-treated EN8 steel. £22</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-012C8DFwXG8/VG5X8VhKtlI/AAAAAAAAE1Q/I6-PhMGXcVE/s1600/IMG_1664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-012C8DFwXG8/VG5X8VhKtlI/AAAAAAAAE1Q/I6-PhMGXcVE/s1600/IMG_1664.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Filler cap</div>
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UK Model A, nickel plated, supply your own horsehair packing. Sealing washer included. £30</div>
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<strike> Light Switch</strike><br />
<strike>UK Model A, complete and a lot of work. £70</strike> Sold.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8rn3M2OMgl8/VCyPtVzdmSI/AAAAAAAAEnY/SlHaats3LuY/s1600/IMG_1602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8rn3M2OMgl8/VCyPtVzdmSI/AAAAAAAAEnY/SlHaats3LuY/s1600/IMG_1602.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Footboards:</div>
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Left and right pair, one set, primed. £20</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mLXCdBGkdlA/U8RHR5mLmgI/AAAAAAAAD8Y/WXdIsbaW48U/s1600/IMG_1391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mLXCdBGkdlA/U8RHR5mLmgI/AAAAAAAAD8Y/WXdIsbaW48U/s1600/IMG_1391.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Rear frame reinforcements. </div>
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Rejects, the fixture slipped and messed up the brake-plate slot. </div>
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<strike>This pair (servicable) £10, </strike> (Sold) but I might be persuaded to make a good pair for £50. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IW1ghKFuarg/VRStW84RFDI/AAAAAAAAFIY/1XHtwNVxlIY/s1600/IMG_1087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IW1ghKFuarg/VRStW84RFDI/AAAAAAAAFIY/1XHtwNVxlIY/s1600/IMG_1087.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you are interested in any of these parts, contact me by <a href="mailto:blog@andypugh.fsnet.co.uk">email.</a>bodgesochttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07356182327906111072noreply@blogger.com0